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Erice: The Taormina Of The West
(Minus the Hype, plus the Pastries)
- by Conchita Vecchio
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Erice, Sicily - Known throughout the centuries as the "Mountain of God" due to the various names it has been attributed depending on which religion was de rigueur at the time, Erice is perched upon a steep crag some 2,460 feet above sea level – thus allowing for breathtaking views and, on pristine days, to see as far as Mount Etna on the opposite side of the island. Locals claim that Cape Bon, lying about 106 miles away in Tunisia, is also sometimes visible.
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What truly surprises visitors when coming to this quaint little medieval village is that, while most of Sicily is characterized by loud hustle and bustle, this seems to be the place that time forgot. Wandering through its cobblestone streets and winding alleyways, you get the impression that you are not in Sicily, but rather somewhere in central Italy, due to the crisp, chilly air and the discretion of its inhabitants.
Of course, no visit to Erice can be complete without a visit to Maria Grammatico's world-famous pastry shop. Lauded in Mary Taylor Simeti's novels Bitter Almonds and On Persephone's Island, Maria Grammatico learned her craft while in a convent. Today she has customers worshipping her delectable sweets, which are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the palate.
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--contributed by Conchita Vecchio (see bio), TEFL teacher, translator, and interpreter. Raised in NY but of Sicilian descent, she will soon be opening a travel consultancy for those interested in visiting Sicily.
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