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The Portinari Chapel in the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio is home to an amazing marble sepulchre containing the remains of San Pietro Martire (da Verona). He was a Dominican friar who became head inquisitor in Italy due to his severe lifestyle and interpretation of doctrine, for his talents as a preacher, and for his zeal for orthodoxy. Seems some of his 13th century fellow Milanese didn’t exactly share his points of view, and so conspired to have him assassinated, succeeding horrifyingly so.
That said, the sepulchre is an extraordinary piece of marble work. The medieval sculptor Giovanni di Balduccio has left us with detailed scenes that glorify the defining moments in San Pietro da Verona‘s life. The whole thing is placed slightly off center in order to better capture the light that comes through the upper windows of this most incredibly beautiful chapel. It is our hope that you manage to visit on a sunny day, when the whole thing seems to glow…
…yet not all that glitters is gold. The eight statues that support the sepulchre itself speak to us through the ages and seem to tell a different story altogether. While in some cases the statues represent women in personal moments of introspection, inspiration, and contemplation of the divine, some are instead of other women observing the former ones.
Take these first two for example. The first one (above) is certainly rapt, a believer in a personal moment of faith and epiphany. But how about this other who is looking at her. Thin lipped, unempathetic to say the least… those half-closed eye-lids. Might this even be disdain?
Not convinced yet? Take a look at the following images of these other two statues. Here too is one that is friendlier, more imperfectly human, a “warm” statue even. She is looking to the sky, to the divine, perhaps in prayer, connection, gratitude, joy… probably all of the above. But we can make no mistake about the statue looking straight at her.
Not exactly the most loving of looks…
GB,
I love when you describe art…..for that matter, when you describe food, too…..or people…..or places ;-)
You should write a book!!
Here’s a bit of trivia surrounding the saint: Carino of Balsamo, San Pietro Martire’s assassin, in fact, was so sorry for what he did that he gave up his life of sin, entered the Domenican monastery of Forli, and later and became the subject of a local cult as Blessed Carino of Balsamo. I studied the saint for a possible painting commission in an Italian church where the saint is venerated, and if you see depictions of a saint with a knife stuck across the top of his head, that’s probably him.
G.B. Your comments about the sculpted maidens are spot-on. One thing that much of modern art and architecture lack is the ability to sustain curiosity and interest (at least for me)… Your article describes how sometimes figurative art can capture one’s attention for sometimes hours if not days on end, myself I spent a goodly amount of time “reading” the statues’ faces…”What were (are) they thinking, what was Balduccio thinking, who really was San Pietro Martire??” G.B., your article and photos are stellar, thank you.
A nice way to look at art! I agree that the Sant’Eustorgio is a must see in Milan. Another peculiarity is that it was (is) considered to be the tomb of the Three Magi. Look at the bell tower: no cross but a star.
Pictures of the Portinari chapel are available on the churches website: http://www.santeustorgio.it/cappella_portinari.html
Absolutely incredible. I loved this “note”
Super note GB. Nice bit of intrigue around the statuary!
Giancarlos: Wonderful images of the faces – each one so emotional. Thanks for your artistry.
Suzanne and Ron
I’ve spent hours looking at the faces of statues in Florence, Venice and Rome marveling at the emotion artist can bring forth from marble. Looks like I need to make a long stop in Milan next time. Great “note” GB.
Great note GB, I like the way you’ve described the statues! If you come again here in Genoa, it will be a pleasure to take you to visit the Monumental Staglieno Cemetery. It is considered an open air museum in view of the number and the artistic quality of the statues. Buona giornata! Anna
The expressions on those faces does make you wonder about the full story. Absolutely fascinating!
Love it.