Yet another sign that spring will soon be here! Although this is neither a change in temperature nor return migrating birds or early blooming flowers. To the joy of all those with a sweet tooth . . . this sign can be eaten.

These are zeppole in other parts of Italy, where they are usually of made of denser dough and are occasionally prepared savory too. In Rome however they are called bigné di San Giuseppe, light puffy wee clouds of deliciousness that begin to appear in most pastry shops a few weeks prior to March 19th, the saint’s day.

Step 1: deep-fry some sugared butter and egg based batter. Remove from oil once they puff up. Step 2: fill to the gills with pastry cream (butter, sugar, and egg based). Then, seeing that they’re light on sugar, cover with powdered sugar before serving.

When you eat your first one during those few weeks that they’re available, it is hard not to have a “I miss you! You are so good, why aren’t you made year-round!?” kind of reaction. Given their . . nutritional value (!?) . . good thing they aren’t, really. By the time San Giuseppe actually rolls around you’ll have eaten so many (a bigné binge?) that 48 weeks of bigné-abstinence is the absolute minimum.

But what a treat! “Un altro bigné con il suo cappuccino, signore?” says the barista with a devilish smile. (“Another bigné with your cappuccino, sir?”) Oh well, what with spring coming it will be easier to work them all off . . right?