(map) 
“Ecco Maggio ch’e’ venuto” chant the Assisani as they feverishly finish up last minute details for the Calendimaggio, wrapping up months of work on the town’s May festival, a welcome to spring. In an explosion of color, excitement, and astounding creativity, the Assisani celebrate spring for three days in front of the 1st-c B.C. Temple to Minerva (what a stage set!).
In the Middle Ages, the Kalende di Maggio (the First days of May) welcomed the arrival of spring with dances, ballads, and the recitation of love poems. St. Francis, himself an accomplished troubadour (his mother was French), was highly admired for the richness and elegance of his verses and ballads. Provençal melodies were in grand vogue among the brigate (companies of young people) who wandered the streets singing the canzoni di Maggio (songs of May).
In the early 14th century, Assisi reached the peak of its splendor, but this was also a period of internal conflict. The city was divided into two rival factions (an outcome of political antagonism between the two most powerful families): La Parte de Sotto (the “lower part”) vs. La Parte de Sopra (the “upper part” of the city). Neither church nor law could squelch the animosity. The first bloody clash erupted at the end of the 14th century but conflicts and hostilities spanned two centuries.
Popular participation is intense and the medieval rivalry re-erupts in Assisi every May as the two factions compete against one another through exuberant song, in intricate medieval dances, in crossbow, archery and banner-hurling contests and in the election of Madonna Primavera (“Lady Spring”). Competitions also include the decoration of the town’s quarters as well as parades of festooned carts and richly-costumed citizens.
The Assisani are oblivious to any tourists gaping open-mouthed at the pageantry unfolding before them: after all, most of the stands are filled with euphoric Assisani, cheering on their side. This festival is about them, their town and their history. Three long-awaited days when they can relive the Middle Ages and welcome spring in – con passione.
(Note: Is this now a “friendly” rivalry? Ha! As of the next three days, when I am in “lower Assisi”, I am in “enemy territory”! Viva la Parte de Sopra!)
Click here for Anne’s full article on the Calendimaggio, and here and here for videos.
Our absolute favorite festival in Italy!! This is one spectacular event – not to be missed if you are planning a trip to Assisi! A whole other side to the city, if you have only visited the Basilica. Thanks Anne for bringing back all those wonderful memories.
Rosemary, I remember your note and great watercolor about Calendimaggio!
Here it is: http://www.italiannotebook.com/events/calendimaggio/
Warm regards,
GB
Have been thinking about Assisi a lot today as knew you would be going into your second day of Calendimaggio. Feeling really nostalgic! So, tonight we have been watching the DVD we bought of 2010 Calendimaggio – wonderful and we could see in detail all the little bits we missed. But where did you get the beautiful photos for your article – some of the best I’ve seen…so close up!
This provided such a fresh breath of springtime: wonderful article with marvelous pictures. I appreciate the blend of historical information with first-hand experience. Makes me want to attend next year. Which first few days of May does it occur?
Calendimaggio is first Thursday, Friday and Saturday in May.
Ah, wouldn’t it be wonderful to be there? But thanks to you, Annie, it is second best. Keep them alive!
Dear Annie- I do enjoy reading your articles, and before I leave Italy (am starting to listen to my kids who are urging me to return to the U.S. while I’m still O.K., etc. etc.) would love to see you again- maybe even have you cook up a party for me and some of my friends—could you give me an idea of prices–either here or at your place–say for a dozen diners? XXOO Sue
Mille grazie to each for note and a quick one before I head off with 10 American tour guests for the gran finale events today – each of us hoarse from yelling our lungs out for our Parte de Sopra yesterday!
Glorious weather: springtime perfect. My ten tour guests have gone CRAZY over events the last few days…quote from one: “This HAS to go ino the book ‘A Thousand Things to Do Before You Die”! Lyn, many thoughts of you and Ted the past few days and guess what? I took PEPPA! Yes, she left her chicks, ducks, rabbits, doves behind for an afternoon and thrilled to the opening events on Thurs…”Bravi, bravissimi” she shouted to the flag-throwers
Ms. Harris..great to hear from you and glad you enjoyed…for all news, rates, etc on FEb/Mar US cooking classes in private homes, pls click here http://www.annesitaly.com/Cooking.html#learningUS
Best,
Annie
Anne, that’s great about Peppa going to see some of the Calendimaggio events!
Yes, Peppa loved it………and wait til she hears that SOPRA won!
The jury debated the results til 3 a.m this morning.
Che bello!