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San Giuseppe was a friar born in the town of Leonessa in the early 1600s, and a member of the Cappucini order. He dedicated his life to feeding the needy and curing the sick. The house that served as infirmary during his time in Otricoli is still standing and displays a marble plaque dedicated his works. Legend maintains that during a dire famine, he miraculously multiplied a pitifully small ration of fava beans, and was able to feed the poor for the whole of Lent.
Since that time Otricoli has celebrated him by cooking and serving a sort of stew made of dried fava beans. This takes place at noon sharp, on February 5th. All the villagers, armed with assorted pots and containers, crowd into the atrium of the church where huge cauldrons are waiting, presided by San Giuseppe’s reliquary. As soon as the Cappucin friar has blessed the food, everyone is served with generous portions of the steaming stew, is given bread and is sent home for lunch.
The cooking of the fava beans is no light task, and it is an honor to be counted as one of the cooks. Cooking starts at around 6:00 in the morning, when the pre-soaked beans are placed in great copper cauldrons and the hard work begins. Each of the 5 cauldrons must be constantly stirred for 6 hours (otherwise the high starch content will cause the stew to burn).
The recipe (supposedly a secret) was whispered to me as follows (and you may want to reduce it a bit):
100 kilos dried fava beans
10 kilos onions
10 kilos celery
11 kilos olive oil
a dash of hot pepper flakes
2 kilos salt
600 grams ground black pepper
Cook the fava beans in water for about 3 hours. Add the condiments, oil and finely chopped vegetables, and cook for 3 hours more, adding water as needed.
This is the original and immutable recipe. But some villagers assured me that a few carrots and tomatoes are not amiss. All agreed that garlic is banned.
Buon appetito!
the recipe sounds very tasty and bracing. however, the elimination of GARLIC, is a definite MISTAKE. most savory food definitely needs at least a hint of this NOBLE BULB, if not for anything else, to head off the evil spirits (and probably anything else in its way!)
My father and I (the second son) are both ‘Giuseppe’ and I grew up on fava. Papa particularly loved ceci e fava dried and salted. Munching on them as he sipped his vino. They say that fava stimulates nitric oxide production,which in turn increases stamina and endurance. Ah!, so now I know why papa loved them….
I just love the stories behind the legends!
cheferisto–the more you travel the reasons become more pazzo as to why one reegione, one paese prefers aglio o cipolla,yet it is all good (chef Giuseppe)
I love this! Thanks so much for sharing such a wonderful event…and recipe (although I’ll be sure to adjust the quantities) No garlic, really?
Love your accounts, and miss Otricoli so much. Thank you for bringing me back, if only for a few moments. xoxo Margot
OK. Come now. Someone has to spill the beans on the garlic issues… Is that the ‘secret’ ingredient the locals keep to themselves?
mark, you’re so right about the “secret” ingredient! if we were with the townspeople sampling this heady brew, we’d sure know if they used lots of THE NOBLE BULB. they can’t keep that a secret for too long!
What a great story, thank you for bringing it to life!!
yes, john. must admit i was remiss in zeroing in only on the recipe. “WHAT A GREAT STORY…..” SAN GIUSEPPE MUST HAVE BEEN A KIND AND GENEROUS MAN! just to make amends for my omission, i want to be quoted: FOOD IS LOVE,especially when it’s shared generously.
I love the stories behind everything and tradition. Now to work on that recipe, not only to reduce it but convert it to the US measure.
What I would GIVE for a bowl of fava beans now!
Brava, Patricia!
I love these traditions!
i’m not a true traditionalist, but this tradition seems good enough to eat!
The garlic perplex: personally I think garlic would add something, and I use it in everything. The funny thing is, that here in the village, so does everybody else. It is ubiquitous. But when I suggested adding it to the fava beans they just gave me pitying looks, as though I had said “why not a few strawberries?”
And not only that; I would add a bay leaf.
pat,ok, get back at your garlic detractors: go ahead and add a few strawberries, and maybe some blood orange sections to boot. oh yes, you’re so right, bay leaves would add a delicious, subtle touch…wish i had thought of that!