(map) Trapani, Sicily
There’s something fantastic about celebrating Easter in Sicily…and although many villages have their ceremonies, the biggest and oldest in Italy is in the city of Trapani. The Procession of the Misteri, depicting the passion and death of Christ, lasts a full 24 hours. The procession begins in the Church of the Souls in Purgatory when the 14 stations of the cross, mounted on ‘floats,’ are carried by various trade guilds. The floats all come out of this central church (Del Purgatorio) in the historic center and the procession winds through the small streets and narrow alleyways, all night long.
Every Easter is an amazing experience. The procession can be especially beautiful under a full moon or in the wee hours of the morning when the lights of the candles, reflecting on the stone buildings, flicker, burnt down and dripping hot wax on the carriers. The carriers are strong men who join arms to hold the hefty weight of the floats as an act of devotion, some in tears. People come out on their balconies to throw rose petals at 4am…
 This religious festival is one of color, music, and emotion. Preparation starts in earnest the night before when hundreds of florists and other tradespeople enter the church to transform the antique wood figures on the floats into what the audience finally sees the following day. It is fascinating to watch the placement of (Roman-type) costumes and swords on the statues of Christ’s tormentors as well as the myriad of flowers that serve as decoration everywhere.
We would like to wish a happy Easter to everyone, and thank you for all your comments and emails of appreciation. They make it all worthwhile!
Speaking of worthwhile, two bits of great info…
First, given her expertise and knowledge of Northern Lazio (which we’ve all enjoyed via her notes), our contributor Mary Jane Cryan was interviewed about Northern Lazio by the Financial Times. Feather in your cap, Mary Jane!
Also, Maria Filice, an ItalianNotebook reader, is now a published author. What’s makes “Breaking Bread in l’Aquila” extra special is its backstory. It will be available on Tuesday, April 6th, on the anniversary of the Abruzzo earthquake. She was in L’Aquila (her late husband’s birthplace) in the aftermath of the earthquake when a woman begged her not to forget about the people of the city. She says it deepened her resolve to complete her book, as a reminder to readers of the Abruzzo region’s suffering. Net profits on the sale of the book will be donated to l’Aquila. Maria, our highest praise to you…. take a bow.
Today’s note and great photos were contributed by Janice Robinson, a painter, currently renovating a house in Sardegna. Her website is janicerobinsonstudio.com. Thanks so much, Janice!
April 2nd, 2010 at 2:14 pm
Thank you for this beautiful note. We loved all the festivals in Italy and were able to attend Good Friday in Enna (a previous “note”) but unfortunately could not be in Trapani for Easter Sunday. Thank you for posting it here.
April 2nd, 2010 at 2:24 pm
I’ll never forget this experience. Just seeing the title of today’s Note sent shivers up my spine. Amazing. Buona Pasqua to all.
April 2nd, 2010 at 11:58 pm
Easter in Trapani, quanto bello!!!!
It has been stated that even die-hard atheists fall to their knees in tears while watching the Holy Day processions that tap into something very, very ancient in the sould of every Sicilian (and atheist!!!).
Sicily has been said to be sixty years behind “progressive” Italy (which is something I’m happy about!!), in Trapani during Easter season all is two thousand years “behind,” which I feel is exquisite… In the words of E.W. Solberg, “All progress is not forward.”