(map) 
While everyone is familiar with the Palio of Siena, few are aware of the lesser known yet by no means less engaging Palio of Torrita di Siena. This town is about 40 kilometers from Siena itself, near the Sinalunga and Montepulciano areas, and is home to about 7,000 proud and true Tuscans.
A walk through the small but beautiful medieval town in the days leading up to the main event confirms that the local Palio is as heartfelt as Siena’s. The eight contrade (neighborhood groupings) have each decorated their streets with their respective flags and pennants, and the many processions in full renaissance garb, drumming showdowns, flag waving and launching contests of the sbandieratori (flag bearers), contrade hosted aperitivi and dinners all attest to the enthusiastic, family oriented, community unifying build-up to the main Sunday event, the Palio itself.
Sunday sees everyone from Torrita as well as many locals from the surrounding areas flock to the long and narrow campetto (small field) outside the town walls. Dignitaries and the MC stand in the middle of racetrack, presenting all the contrade one by one… much parading, flag waving, and drum rolling once again. Awards are given to the most dignified contrada, best sbandieratori, and most rousing drummers.
Anticipation builds as the contrade’s fantini (jockeys) are presented. They walk the racetrack, stopping and bowing before their fellow contradaioli (fellow contrada members) who cheer them on, each jockey kissing his wife and children in the stands before returning to the center of the race track for the next stage of the event… the random selection of the “mounts”.
At this point Torrita’s Palio takes a definite turn. The “steeds” in question, presented with great fanfare to all, are not horses but donkeys. You now realize that the concern you noticed on the jockeys’ faces was not due to how fast their mounts might go, but to how slow they might go. As you can see from the final photo, this is largely a valid concern.
These donkeys, like donkeys the world over, quite often tend to do as they damn well please, pressing importance of Palio winning notwithstanding. And sure enough, in many of the elimination heats, as well as in the final round to determine the Palio winner, some donkeys decided to do just that, to the utter humiliation of the respective poor jockeys who were assigned donkeys that were as hard-headed as.. well, donkeys, and to the frustration of the related contrade that saw their Palio winning chances stop dead in their four hoofed tracks.
Needless to say, the MC had everyone rolling on the floor with his loudspeaker commentary…
Contrada Torre Nova and Contrada Refenero are head to head! They seem to enjoy racing, no, they have now stopped! They are nuzzling each other! It seems the donkeys are communicating! “Hello fellow donkey, how are you? – Oh fine, thank you. I see you too have a strange man on your back whacking your bum. – Yes, me too! – Oh, how nice, after you. – No no, after you!” …and off they go again… at Christmas nativity scene speeds!!!
They are tearing up the track! Notice the aerodynamic ears of the Contrada Stazione donkey, truly splendid form, perfect for a painter… given how still it is standing!
The donkey of Porta Pago has done two turns! The donkey of Porta Sole has done three turns… except his turns were done in place, around himself! Do they count?! If a donkey turns around four times in place, might we count that as one full lap around the track?!
…and so on and so forth. Needless to say, like palio’s everywhere in Italy the winning contrada (Porta Gavina this year) rushed the “race” track to collect the palio, the losers sported sour faces no doubt feeling like the asses they rode in on, and everyone had a fantastic time.
Even the donkeys seemed please to have had the chance to take a nice walk…
When does this event take place. great post. thanks.
Great GB. You built the tension nicely here. I’m glad other nations have daft events too, not just the Brits with their welly-wanging and cheese rolling. It is always hilarious to watch people taking something so silly so very seriously. Super note. Did that donkey ever get going?
Dear GB,
Your Italian Notebook articles are the best!!! You write so well I felt as though I was there at the Palio. I also like you articles on food especially when they come with recipes.
Thank you.
The MC was hilarious! Thanks for publishing this funny note. It was a great start to my day.
Would love to see this; wouldn’t you???
I Like it !!!1 Must be alot of fun for all ages. I’ve been to Siena many times but never heard about Torrita di Siena.
Another town on my list to visit the next time I’m in Tuscany.
Although I have been to Sienna and the surrounding area, I have not seen the Palio. I think it would be better to attend Palio of Torrita di Siena, because it would be less crowded. Thanks for the info. Maybe next time …although I might take a trip focused on the Opera.
But then again ….. there’s Ischia. I loved that article too.
Ah, la bella Italia!!! GB does it again with his ItalianNotebook.
GB, Your best yet. Complimenti. The next time I see you at Berti’s, the cappuccino is on me. Yes, we’re dwelling again on V. G. Mameli. Arturo
What a funny palio! Thanks for taking us to all the action, or whatever it was!
What dates would these be, this year? Any idea?
My goodness what a lot of fun! Great entry as usual GB – grazie mille.
Oops, right you are, I forgot to mention dates. The palio’s official date is the first Sunday after San Giuseppe (March 19th). Lead-up activities take place the week before that Sunday.
Just found out that due to this year being the 150th celebration of the founding of Italy, the Palio of Torrita di Siena will be run twice! Date is set for June 4th, for a repeat of the whole magilla.
Your daily messages brighten my day, what a wonderful way to start out.
Maybe this is where the “Donkey Baseball Game” that I saw as a child came from. I saw it in Escondido, California. It was helerious. Those donkey’s sure have a mind of their own. Thanks for sharing.
We used to have baseball games on donkies .and yes it was funny to watch them try to get the donkies around the bases or even try to stay on one if he didn,t want you on him.
I can picture what you said about trying to get them around the track,been there and done that.
Thank you for the artical,as usual they are great.
Dear GB: Because of you I’m considering canceling my subscription to Italian Notebook. . . I’m not sure how many more times I can take the torture of your wonderful and engaging articles. They make me ache to be there soaking it all in! Pax
This one had me laughing out loud!
Have been to the Palio in Sienna, but this one would definitely be worth a trip. What a delight to read about it, and what fun it must be to see. And how good that the lowly donkey gets her/his day in the sun (other than Christmas and Palm Sunday, of course) and at her/his pace.
Always the best, GB… knew it had to be you. Thanks for this!
All the best!
GB…a great one!
Mamma mia, sorry I missed the date. Pino and I will be there next year senza’ dubbio. “Asinelli” are his greatest love (we now have 5 – started with just 2 which is all we wanted, but – o dio mio- they ARE prolific!)
Complimentoni!