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Located in Umbria’s largest valley, Bevagna can sizzle at the end of June. You can’t even think about dressing in heavy woolen capes or jute or velvet – or armor (!) – or even fantasize about forging bronze bells, baking bread in a stone bread oven, minting coins, glass-blowing or tanning leather – unless you are Bevignate. During their medieval festival, the Mercato delle Gaite, the townspeople – from toddlers to the elderly – fully relive Bevagna’s medieval culture and history…with passione
For months prior, the people of Bevagna’s four gaite – or sections of the town – meticulously research the trades and traditions that animated their town in the Middle Ages. Throughout this late June ten-day festival, the gaite (a Lombard word meaning “guard towers”; the Lombards/Longobardi dominated Umbria in the 8th century) compete con grande passione in the authenticity of the medieval banquet (based on months of culinary research), the street fair and each gaita‘s artisan workshops.
The medieval banquet in costume is a time machine that transfers you back to the thirteenth century. Last year, a group of us slipped into medieval costumes (so hot and itchy, we took them off before dinner was over..but the locals didn’t!) joining in the feast in the medieval taverna, after washing hands in terracotta basins of rosewater. With the Bevignati, we all shared in a banquet of lasagne with ginger and saffron, slivered almonds and pine nuts (no tomato, of course!), followed by venison with sweet-and-sour onions and other medieval delicacies.
Afterwards, you can wander through the buttressed medieval backs treets – so characteristic of Bevagna – to see the astounding re-creations of medieval crafts: from the grinding of colors for fresco painting to the forging of swords to the spinning of silk. How not to mention the goldsmith, the glass-blowing, the minting of coins, forging of bronze church bells, the making of parchment from stretched sheepskin, paper-making, leather-curing and the writing of illuminated manuscripts? In torch lit medieval ambiances, artisans in authentic medieval dress demonstrated and explained their creations to fascinated visitors….con grande passione.
Thanks to Federico Fondacci of Bevagna for the photos of the Mercato delle Gaite medieval trades scenes.
In the time we lived in Umbria, we missed this festival (and we thought we hit them all!). It looks amazing! The medieval festivals in Italy and truly incredible.
Going to Bevagna a with you and to the sagra are two of my most cherished memories from our trip with Niccolino, Sam, Steve and Suzanna in 2005. This morning I forwarded the article to Steve, Sam and Suzanna as I do all of your articles. Italia is ever present on my mind and always in my heart.
What a fabulous trip and one of my most memoriable. I really could return every year if only I were able!!
I especially love the photo of the man on the street – I can actually feel his enthusiasm jump off the screen. Another great note, Anne…and another great example of the pride in history of Italians. Bevagna-another place to put on my “bucket list” of Places I’ve Never Been in Italy! Toni
We went to Bevagna with Anne during the day while the preparations for the festival in the late afternoon/evening where taking place. Anne took us to the regular sites of her tour of Bevagna but also allowed us to engage in some of the festival activities. We almost got shot with arrows from walking up from the car park by men/boys shooting at targets in full traditional gear – modern day Robben Hoods. We then saw a different group practising to shoot an arrow at a target between two swinging axes. We also saw the goldsmith and the interior of a traditional medieval house. Every single shop’s exterior was covered to look as if it existed during medieval times and everyone was already in full costume. You really felt like you were in a medieval town and the enthusiasm and excitement for the festival was tangible.
Anne, I loved this article. It brought back great memories of the first time I attented the festival. I’ll be sure to put it on my website (www.thisoldconvent.com) and let all my guests know what a jewel Bavagna really is. Thanks, Joan
Thanks to all – and yes,Mercato delle Gaite not to be missed – and especially the medieval banquet with “the locals” – a first-rate experience of “passione”!
Another great one by Anne.I’m Italian and Anne knows our Italy better than I do.