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As the first rays of the morning sun touched the eaves of the buildings, the sound of a lone horn is heard across the entire island of Procida like Gabriele sounding the start of the rapture. Then a silence and the beat of a primal drum sounded once, twice and three times; a dirge marking the foot falls of the participants. Thus begins the Procession of the Mysteries which is preformed at dawn on the Friday before Easter each year on the island of Procida.
As early as the 2nd century, Good Friday has been kept by Christians around the world as a day of penance and fasting to commemorate the crucifixion and suffering of Christ. On the island of Procida, one of the most evocative moments of Settimana Santa (Holy Week), both for the islanders and for a few tourists that hasten there every year, is certainly Good Friday.
Founded in 1629 by of the Jesuit brotherhood of the “Turchini”, this procession involves the whole island, both in its preparation and in its execution. Organized in various groups, both young and old begin plans for the procession in the months preceding Ash Wednesday. Every group works in one of the many island front doors that become places for social interaction during the Procidan winter. Everything is dedicated to creating the ultimate testimony of faith.
The day of the procession, the men and boys of the island participating (no women), dress in the traditional dress of the “Confraternity of the Turchini” – a white habit surmounted by a “mozetta”, or mantle of blue. These costumes are generally jealously guarded by every Procidan family. They carry allegorical wagons (called misteri, mysteries) of religious character through the village of Torre Murata to the port of Marina Grande. The “mysteries”, often highly stylized and artistic, are prepared to reflect the life and death of Christ. In the last few years, themes for the wagons are also inclusive of modern concerns like the terror of drug use and the mob. Many of these floats are quite astounding with real fish, rabbit, and bread and look as if prepared for Christ himself to dine there.
On the day of the procession all participants (around three thousand) gather to assemble the wagons and organize the procession. This takes place in the little square in front of the abbey of St. Michele Arcangelo from where the oldest brotherhood of the Turchini proceeds to the so-called “Chiamata” (Call) of the Mysteries. 
This is the lone trumpet that breaks the stillness of the morning and marks the beginning of the procession. This is answered with the haunting sound of 3 lone strikes on a drum, to emulate the sound that accompanied the death row inmates in ancient Rome. This is the only sound heard as it marks the route of the procession for its duration.
The men struggle under the weight of these huge wagons and the frustration of navigating the cramped streets. Their pride and determination are mirrored as much in their struggle with their burdens as with the beauty of their creations. Following the mysteries, a somber flag bearer presents a flag with the writing SPQR (Senatus Populusque Romanus), a symbol of Rome. Behind the flag bearer, men drag huge chains (symbolic of the capture of Christ).
The procession is closed by the ancient statue of Our Lady of Sorrows followed by “little angels”, newborn children wearing very beautiful black costumes with gold embroidery. The children are carried by their fathers, grandfathers or uncles. Finally the statue of the dead Christ (a work by the famous Neapolitan sculptor Carmine Lantriceri) is preceded by the pallium (a funeral canopy supported by the representatives of the Procidan Military Marines).
After having followed the historical path, the procession of the Mysteries finishes at the port of Marina Grande. And what happens to all that food? We were told that there is a feast after. We were invited but had to leave to catch our ferry back to Naples.
The Procession of the Mysteries is a lovely tradition that joins the present with its ancient past. My German friend described it best saying “they show all the good things in their lives that they thank God for – the harvest of food, the animals and fish, the babies and their faith that keeps them strong”. I have heard it said that all seamen will tell you that on Good Friday they are taken by a sudden yearning and melancholy. They say that in the din of the motors of their ships, they hear the distant sounds of the trumpet and drum of the Procession in Procida.
The procession starts at 7:00 but get there early. If you can make it to the castle, you can catch the preparations for the procession. The ferries run from Pozzuoli and the Port of Naples to Procida check them for times. You might consider going the night before for Holy Thursday then do some exploring as it is a lovely sea village full of quaint streets and enchanting vistas.
Buona Pasqua!
- Btw, in Italy, the Monday after Easter Sunday is “Pasquetta” (literally, Little Easter), a holiday, so ItalianNotebook will be publishing it next note on Tuesday. Auguri di Pasqua to everyone!
- We are truly pleased to have Leslie Xavier, President of the International Archaeological Society of Naples (IAS), as a guest contributor today. The IAS was founded in 1975 by a small group of individuals with a shared passion for the ancient ruins in Italy. It continues today as a forum for people with a joy for discovery and a desire to exchange and share information and experiences related to the history, archaeology and classical antiquities of Italy through workshops, lectures, tours, and round table discussions conducted by distinguished academics and experts.
What a wonderful “blast from the past” and a memorable revisitation of the events of Easter Week!
Wonderful! Thanks for sharing this…means so much. Only I do wish they’d include the women in the procession, it’s about time!
In any ceremony where the life of Jesus is depicted I always wonder why women are excluded, when Christ was an unusual supporter of women? Mary Magdelan was key among his followers. His love and compassion extended equally to women,and girls and yet many cultures displaying their observances leave the highly important work and contributions of women out of their religious culture.
This reminded me so much of the processions our church had when I was a child. It’s so sad that these customs have died down here.
Procida is one of our favourite places, though we haven’t been there for this extraordinary event. Thanks for the beautiful images and your compelling description.
I was yearning to be in Procida for the Misteri procession when I woke this morning (in England), so was delighted to see today’s Italian Notebook. I lived in a house overlooking Procida for 4 years and visited the island almost every weekend in the boating season, becoming very friendly with some families there. The annual Misteri procession is a remarkable community achievement and hauntingly beautiful. I hope that it remains a well kept secret amongst Italian Notebook readers and does not get spoiled by tourist intrusion!
Thank you all for the kind words. Just a note regarding the exclusion of women – the Confraternity of the Turchini is a brotherhood. Women are excluded because this is tradition and not because women are not respected. While I’m for the recognition of women, I’m also for preserving the ancient traditions in events such as these.
What a wonderful note for today, many, many thanks.
Buona Pasqua a tutti!
This beautiful procession is totally unknown and new to me. Thank you so much for such a concise and informative piece. I really enjoyed learning something new and absolutely loved the photos.
The wonders of Italy continue to enthrall me.
Incidentally, my parents were married in 1926 in Our Lady of Sorrows Church in Corona, Borough of Queens, New York
Happy Easter to all everywhere!
Lovely article, makes me want to be there!