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In Rome, the summer heat has the timing of a naughty child ( it hits as soon as vacations start and doesn’t end until your first day of work.) For this reason, every person who wants to explore the city without melting onto a sidewalk is obliged to cool him/herself with Rome’s own special refrigerating dessert: the fruity grattachecca, (pronounced gra-ta-kay-kah), prepared by scraping (grattare) ice from an impressive slab of the stuff, affectionately called la checca.
The grattachecca is a coarse drink which combines the soft texture of the fruits with crunchy ice and, like the Romans, it is simple and unpretentious. Its traditional flavors are mint, barely water and blackberry, although new variations go for improbable combinations such as lemon-kiwi with strawberries, or rose petals with a “hint” of lemon and a “sprinkle” of orange juice. Without fail, however, there is always the good old Roman who elbows his way to the counter and says:
“A Sora Mirè! Fanne tre co’ menta e orzata… e falle piene!” (Hey Signora Mirella, make three with mint and barely water… and make ‘em full!)
When ordering a grattachecca, beware of the insidious low quality alternative which is erroneously called granita sold in cafés. This mechanically blended flavored ice has nothing to do with the coarse and juicy original found only at street stalls. Luckily, you can still taste the real grattachecca at Sora Maria on Via Trionfale and Sora Mirella on the Lungotevere. These outdoor stands are the epicenter of any hot summer Roman evening, and it isn’t unusual to meet old school friends, professors or bosses you wished you would never see again, cousins, the ex, or your grandmother!
– Contributed by Valentina Nesci, writer, American University of Rome Senior, Italian Notebook Editorial Intern.
My mouth is watering………..
Does Valentina mean to say: mint and “barley” water? :-))
How can we get to taste this inviting dessert in the US?
How that brings back fond memories,menta e orzata…, oh that was such a treat on a warm summer afternoon when at Nonni casa. But always with fresh mint from the garden and if Nonno was in a very happy mood ( which was very often) we had a bit of vino very cold….
Thank you for the article, la grattachecca is something I hadn’t heard of before. Now I will know to try one next time I am fortunate enough to visit Roma.
This,mesmerized me somewhat,because Although I lived in Rome in Via Quattro Fontane close to Via Nazionale where my only bedroom window faced,Never heard of his concoction,Then,Thinking of all the jobs I did while attending and also working at the University(al Merano) it was very pleasurable that Mss Nesci would find something mostly used in and around Trastevere.Never too old to learn!Best wishes to you and her for such a great report!
The grattachecca sounds lovely. But I think it is made not with barely (which means almost none) water, but barley (made from the barley grain) water.
Do you mean barely OR barley water ?
I never saw this fine refreshing dessert before. Next year in Rome, I will certainly look for the stand.
This is better than having Gelato all day long while walking. The picture just makes me want a grattachecca right now!!!!!!
Thank you for sending us this great article.
Ciao,
Claudia
I like Valentina Nescia’s style- as refreshing as her grattachecci!! I forwarded this to a friend attending a conference in Rome- it should help !! Pat
Heheheh… what a goof! Valentina is forgiven the typo, English not being her mother tongue. But I should have caught that one…”made with barely water” That’s funny, given that the entire drink is pretty much only water!
Definitely a classic. My favorite “chiosco” is at the corner where the Lungotevere and the Isola Tiberina meet. Pineapple with fresh chunks of coconut…Want to run out and get one right now!
Wow. I never heard of this! I loved the granitas we had in Sicily and in Umbria but these sound like they must be even better! Who knew?