City with Views II

Of all the views however, Ancona’s crowning jewel is the hard-to-miss Monte Conero, sitting just to the south like a big gentle giant who plopped down on the Riviera to catch some sea air and decided to stay for the long haul.

Walk up to the San Ciriaco Cathedral to marvel at the busy port below. Then stroll down to the Passetto and take the elevator to the spiaggetta (little beach) to sunbathe with the Anconetani during their lunch breaks.

For the true summer beach experience, drive 15 minutes south and you are suddenly plunged into the pristine, natural reserve that is Portonovo, with its rocky beaches, cliffs, and luxurious hotels and restaurants. Have lunch at Hotel Emilia, but get there early because the view is so breathtaking you will need a few minutes as you stare agape. Pinch yourself to snap out of it in time to eat your tagliatelle al nero di seppia (squid ink).

When you’re done with lunch, grab your swimsuit and walk down the Portonovo beach and take dive from the very top of La Vela into the deep blue waters. Not for the faint of heart! Reward your courage at dinner with some of Giacchetti’s famous moscioli (mussels).

Some people will argue that Ancona doesn’t have enough signs, enough tours, or enough advertising to get more tourist Euros rolling in. And they are right. Not many people know about the Riviera del Conero. And honestly? Shhh…we like to keep it that way.