The Wrong Story

When traveling through Italy, locals will happily regale you with stories of their neighborhoods, some of which will actually be true. Following is based on lore, but before we tell you the real story, here’s what the locals want you to know, based on a sign framed outside the sanctuary:

“The hermitage…was probably built on an existing pagan temple dedicated to Priapus, protector of virility and fertility… Until a few centuries ago, women that went to the sanctuary during the feast held on September 26, 27 and 28 walked in a procession carrying objects in red wax representing the parts of the body for which a grace was requested, and among these the most common were those that reproduced the male genital organ (the very shape of the lantern that rises above the tower, very much lengthened, can be seen as a sort of phallic symbol). Around the Isernia phalluses there flourished a rich literature produced by folklore and cultural anthropology scholars: … at the end of the 18th century Sir William Hamilton, the English ambassador to the King of Naples, took to England some phallic symbols from Isernia, which were deposited at the British Museum in London (these in 1996 were exhibited …together with Sir William’s whole collection)”.

In reality, the architectural structure of the building dates to the 16th century. It’s lovely caisson ceiling and frescoes on the walls depict scenes from the life and martyrdom and miracles of the doctor saints of the town, Cosmas and
Damian, “flanked by Evangelical scenes culminating in the triumphal vision of the Crowning of the Virgin painted inside the dome”. Perhaps someone will refute the story and write the real one. Until then…