(map) Napoli, Campania
Remember the poet Virgil’s special powers? For the man who buried the magical egg under Castel dell’Ovo, it would be nothing to carve a 700 metre tunnel through the volcanic rock of Posillipo ridge to connect Naples with the road to Pozzuoli. In a single night. With his intense gaze.
Strong magic indeed to tunnel from the eastern entrance of the Crypta Neapolitana in Piedigrotta (literally, foot of the grotto), to the western one in Fuorigrotta (beyond the grotto). Actually, the tunnel was devised by the Roman architect Cocceius around 37BC, but since nothing in Naples is so dull, let’s add that he used 100,000 slaves who accomplished the work in merely 15 days.
Yet Virgil haunts this place. The tomb at Piedigrotta was reputed to hold his ashes and it was here that Petrarch, Boccaccio and Dante came to pay their respects. An inscription quotes the master:
“Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope.”
(Mantua bore me, Calabria snatched me away, now Naples holds me.)
-- Written by Penny Ewles-Bergeron (see bio), writer, artist, (some paintings visible here), ... finding the many good things in Naples.
February 26th, 2010 at 1:38 pm
Great tale,Penny. The mere idea of 100,000 men boring through this narrow tunnel in 15 days is a testament to the Italian custom of refusing to stand in line. Perhaps they were told that there was a prize for the winner at the end…perhaps freedom?
February 26th, 2010 at 2:34 pm
There’s always something mystical and magical around every corner in Italy.
February 26th, 2010 at 2:51 pm
Naples never ceases to amaze!
February 26th, 2010 at 3:03 pm
Great Note! By the way, I think all the ItalianNotebook readers should organize a reunion at the lovely Italian immersion school advertised on today’s email version of the Note-how fun would that be!!
February 26th, 2010 at 5:11 pm
A wonderful note! I love going to Virgil’s tomb and I love your description of it!
February 26th, 2010 at 7:16 pm
In Italy no matter where one sets foot one is walking on history… My family’s house in Piemonte was built in 900 on the foundation of a Roman brick factory which were placed on top of Etruscan stonework… There is the “old” church constructed in the 1400s and the “new” church built in the 18th century; a different sense of time and history is encountered in Italy/Europe. Here in California my house is considered old and of interest being it was built in 1905, in historical terms it’s just an infant. Thank you for the photos and the article.
February 26th, 2010 at 11:56 pm
I give up. I have looked at a couple of maps of Naples that I have. I have been there probably six or seven times. And I have been to Pozzuoli, in fact just in fall of 2007 when I was last in Naples. I have not heard of La Crypta Neapolitana, but it looks very interesting, and I would like to visit it. Is it reachable by public transportation from near the main train station area where I usually stay? I would sure appreciate the information. I hope to return to Naples this fall.
Thanks.
February 27th, 2010 at 7:32 am
@Joan Schmelzle: couldn’t be easier – take Metro from Naples Central Station in direction of Pozzuoli. Get off at Mergellina and Virgil’s Tomb is right across the road at the entrance to the ‘modern tunnel’ which leads to Fuorigrotta. The park which houses the tomb is generally open but don’t expect the tunnel itself to be open! Like many places in Naples these things get restored to former glory, open briefly, then mysteriously close.
There is another Roman tunnel which cuts through the earth from Bagnoli to Posillipo. Another feat of engineering which allowed critical movement to Roman forces in the days when there was no direct road link from Pozzuoli to Naples, this tunnel was restored and opened briefly to the public almost 20 years ago. After a brief period it closed and can now be opened by wielding the key of great influence. Pity really because the site where it arrives in Posillipo is well worth visiting.
February 27th, 2010 at 4:45 pm
Thank you so much, Vidor. I am saving the information to add to my plans.
Joan
February 28th, 2010 at 8:39 pm
Thanks for all your comments – and Vidor for the directions and info.
March 2nd, 2010 at 7:37 am
Plenty of info (sometimes a little eccentric)on Naples at http://faculty.ed.umuc.edu/~jmatthew/naples/newAN.html
March 2nd, 2010 at 10:33 am
Thanks again Vidor. I like the style of the Matthews site. Lots of info. goodies here.
May 19th, 2010 at 7:56 am
If anyone is interested the other tunnel I refer to above appears to be open at the moment (May is ‘Monument Month in Naples and the related site -unavailable in English- announces the tunnel as open: http://www.comune.napoli.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/4587)It is know as the Grotto di Seiano. I drove past the entrance on the road known as Coroglio a couple of days ago and the entrance was open and all looking spick and span. Probably easier to try to access from the Posillipo side though.
May 19th, 2010 at 11:42 am
That was a kind thought Vidor – hope some readers get to explore while it’s open.
May 19th, 2010 at 1:07 pm
I have just looked at the Google Map and note that the marker pin for this note is actually on the Coroglio entrance of the Grotta di Seiano instead of on Virgil’s Tomb in Piedigrotta. Just thought I’d mention it in case someone does go looking