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Some local experts cite the fourteenth century as the onset of il merletto al tombolo (pillow spun lace) in Offida, others a bit later. In the sixteenth century the intricate lacework first appeared on the collars of personages painted by Marchigiano master Simone De Magistris. On a wooden door of the early seventeenth century St. Augustine church, an angel wears a transparent gown bordered with the delicate – truly angelic – bobbin lace of Offida. By this time, bobbin lace from Offida was in great demand all over Europe and when Offidani soldiers headed off to battle, even their armour was trimmed with merletto al tombolo!
In summertime, the local signore sit in the shade of the main piazza’s porticoes, chatting, hands and bobbins flying as they create miracles of intricacy and finery. If you make it there, Offida’s most famous merlettaia, Rosina, always at work just inside her little shop, appropriately named “il Gioiello“. Rosina learned to create lace “jewels” from her mother who had learned from her grandmother and has been creating masterpieces since she was ten years old. 
This three-generation span of lace work artisans is immortalized in a sculpture not far from the shop: grandmother, mother and daughter diligently working, heads bowed over their tomboli. The walls of Rosina’s shop are lined with photos of her masterpieces, including bridal trousseaus for world-famous people. There was even a photo of Naomi Campbell in a short dress made only of Offidana lace.
Rich merchants no longer leave Offida, horses laden with lace. Visitors purchase little: Offida lace works are masterpieces requiring hours of labor. Rosina picked up a delicate little lace little butterfly which she sells for 6 Euro: “Lo vede, Signora? Due ore di lavoro. Chi oggi lavora per tre Euro all’ora? Il nostro merletto finira’” (“Do you see this, Signora? Two hours of work. Who will work today for three euro an hour? Our lacework will end…”)
She proudly unrolled two of her most stunning masterpieces, a black lace shawl, and a centerpiece work of art. “No one will ever be able to buy these… so I will just keep them.”
So poignant… What can be done so that we don’t lose this precious tradition?
Rosina’s smile is as lovely as her lace! Thank you or sharing both with us.
I do hope that the secrets to this type of lace making are being passed on, the work of these women is of museum quality that will inspire all for generations… At the turn of the 20th century my Sicilian grandmother was taught by cloistered nuns fine lacework in the Byzantine-Arab-Franco styles (I have one of her samplers, unbelievably intricate work!!), sadly no one in the family had the time to be taught the art and two or three local Italian American organizations didn’t consider her work relevant to their “progressive” aspirations, so along with Nonna’s passing also an ancient art form seemingly evaporated. Though all isn’t lost being a friend who is a very competent craftswoman looked at the sampler and said that an experienced lace maker could replicate the designs and techniques, that “all isn’t lost”. Oh, the sampler–which would be the envy of any lace maker–was created when my grandmother was nine years old!!!… Thankfully my family has her vast collection of shawls that she knitted over an eighty year span, all works of art, all reflecting the ancient past.
No one can truly appreciate lace making until they have done it themself. To see those fingers so deftly and swiftly manipulate the bobbins knowing where each is to be placed during the knotting process is only truly appreciated when you try to do it, whether it is knit, crochet(my personal method), or bobbin. How many of us have pieces of lace created by a grandmother or aunt from years ago when it was a favorite passtime? Let’s hope the tradition gets passed on forever.
That black lace shawl is indeed a work of art! Perhaps Offida would consider taking in an inquisitive apprentice to learn and then preserve the tradition. Sign me up!
It is so sad when such crafts (art, really) are lost. However, perhaps if the prices were raised, more women would consider it worth their time to learn and preserve the tradition. But like many things, there are probably Chinese women who also make lace for cheaper prices. Let’s hope that there are those who will carry on the lace making just because they love to do it.
I’m with you Peggy Cahill. I have always wanted to learn
this wonderful and beautiful art (I crochet and do cut work
taught by my Mother)but I have yet to find an instructor.
A bit off the subject of lace, but a comment about Anne Robichaud who contributed this article. I had the distinct pleasure of participating in one of Anne’s cooking classes here in Southern California last night, and I must let everyone know that it is truly something not to be missed. Anne is outstanding and I urge anyone with any sort of interest in cooking to seek out the opportunity to cook with Anne, it is a life changing experience!
bellissimi! I too had great grandmothers and grandmothers who could do this of work – Sicilians and Napolitani, but sadly it did not make its way down to me! Although I am a painter, so perhaps, hopefully, their artistic talent was passed down in some small way to me. It is always sad when traditions die. Thank you @italiannotebook. com for keeping it alive!
Can you post a picture of the statue of the grandmother, mother and daughter creating their merletto? I’d love to see it!
As per your request, just posted it above in the note, Jackie.
Mille grazie! I hope to see it in person someday.
Anne always has such fine pictures to illustrate her always highly informative and delightful articles!
So tombolo is pillow……thankyou !
I adore the vocabulary you give us…..
Time is the currency of Love……
=…….Beauty is given by way of time
“It is the time you have devoted to your rose that makes your rose so important” said the fox.A.St Exepury / the Little Prince
Well, yes, in a way. Tombolo is the drum shaped pillow used specifically for making lace. The word for the pillow that one uses to rest their head or behind on is “cuscino” (more or less pronounced, koo-SHEE-no).
Anne Robichaud always posts the most interesting stories, and has a keen ear for what will soon, unfortunately be lost. I too was lucky enough to attend one of her cooking sessions in New York City, and I will never forget how delicious, and how much fun, the evening was. Looking forward to seeing her again soon on her cooking tours.
Thanks to you all for your comments and notes and Jackie, the statue of the 3-generations of lace-makers is in the article…do note.
No doubt taking a great cooking class with Anne is such fun – but we had the pleasure of two full days in Italy (Perugia/Deruta/Spello/Assisi) with Anne last fall and if you think cooking is fun, you should catch up with her in Umbria. It is a great treat!
Annie! Another marvelous vignette of Italian beauty. Brava. May your trip be blessed and generously sprinkled with joy and laughter.