March 12 2015 / Food & Wine

More than a Snack, this “Ciancino”

San Macario in Piano, Tuscany

West of Lucca in this nondescript village, you’ll note a rotund wine cask on the right with vino sfuso (wine by

February 23 2015 / Local Interest

Il Bar, il Vero Cuore della Città

Assisi, Umbria

The graceful, stately 1st century BC Roman temple to Minerva reigns in the Assisi town center, surveying town life as

June 4 2014 / Food & Wine

Cantine Aperte

Le Marche

Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars) is what a wine lover would describe as heaven on earth. The Movimento Turismo del Vino

February 10 2014 / Food & Wine

Color My Winter Blood Orange


I’ve been checking daily at my corner supermarket, running around town knocking on fruit shop doors, and visiting the twice-a-week,

September 14 2010 / Food & Wine



There’s quite a penchant around here for bitter digestive liqueurs made with infusions of vegetables or herbs and spices. All

March 25 2010 / Food & Wine

Sagrantino di Montefalco

Montefalco, Umbria

The foothills of Umbria nurture many vineyards that rival those of their Tuscan neighbors to the north. Montefalco, nestled between

January 15 2010 / Food & Wine

Caffe’ al bacio

Naples, Campania

Neapolitan baristi (bartenders, as in at a cafe’) have an infinite number of twists on your traditional caffé. In Piazza

October 29 2009 / Food & Wine

Wine made of tears and faith

Morro d'Alba, Le Marche

We Marchigiani (pronounced Mar-key-jah-nee) pride ourselves on our faith – to our local wines, that is. Because what Marche wines

July 30 2009 / Food & Wine

Forteto Vineyard

Loazzolo, Piemonte

“Well, you know, every farm needs a tractor. And Amadeus is ours,” said Giovanni Scaglione as he walked us around

July 28 2009 / Local Interest

Cool Summer Drinks


Heat wave arriving! What to order at the bar? (meaning, the café) Forget the numerous and appetizing beers which will

June 19 2009 / Local Interest

Distributore Automatico

Valiano, Tuscany

Stopping was the only logical thing to do. When else along a small country road between even smaller towns would

May 25 2009 / Events

Cantine Aperte


On the last weekend of May, an annual festival involving more than 800 winegrowers throughout Italy takes place, known as

May 18 2009 / Food & Wine

Symposium Vini


Has finding the perfect gift in Italy been eluding you? No longer! In Viterbo there is a small enoteca (wine

May 12 2009 / Food & Wine


Le Marche

Plant and herb-based digestivi (digestive liquors) are a common conclusion for many the multi-course Italian feast. The restorative properties of

April 14 2009 / Local Interest

Cantine and Wine

Sant'Agata de' Goti

Sant’Agata dei Goti, founded by the Goths in the 6th century, boasts some of the deepest cantine (basements) in Italy.

March 20 2009 / Local Interest

The non-Campaign


Your brave journalist was prevented from taking pictures for this Note, chased and almost run over by two angry women

February 26 2009 / Food & Wine

Italia Express


He didn’t paint the Sistine Chapel, fight for the unification of Italy, or invent the radio. Yet in 1933, Alfonso

November 10 2008 / Food & Wine

Have your Pecorino and drink it too!


On the steep hillsides north of Ascoli Piceno you’ll find a heritage grape native only to this area. The uva

November 3 2008 / Food & Wine

Etna’s Victory Wine


Greek, but Sicilian born and bred, Empedocles believed that all things came from four elements. The legendary wine Victory fits

September 12 2008 / Local Interest

Caffé Shakerato


Summer may be nearing its end, but look for more hot days ahead. So how to get a coffee fix

November 27 2007 / Events

Chestnut Festival


All over Italy local festivities or sagre are held to celebrate harvests, saints, or special foods. Umbria has its fair

November 7 2007 / Food & Wine

Antico Forno Roscioli


In Italy, pretty much all stores that deal with food are by definition what elsewhere one would call a gourmet