March 13 2015 / Places

Scandal in Posillipo

Naples, Campania

Queen Joanna II (1373 – 1435) lived in troubled times. Her series of court favourites and lovers was embroidered in


February 6 2015 / Local Interest

FUNICULÌ, FUNICULÀ!

Mount Vesuvius, Campania

From the days when British Ambassador William Hamilton wore through his shoes (and those of his long-suffering servants) upon the


October 31 2013 / Art & Archaeology

Drain Away

Napoli, Campania

Puozza scula’… possibly, at the same time, one of the most colorful and most disturbing Neapolitan insults that one can


May 17 2013 / Art & Archaeology

Spaccanapoli

Naples, Campania

No trip to Naples is complete without a walk along what locals simply call Spaccanapoli (literally, Naples splitter). Actually, it


February 20 2013 / Places

Calabria’s Patron Saint

While strolling through the huge Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples, the Church of San Francesco di Paola with its grand


January 16 2013 / Places

The English Cemetery in Naples

Napoli, Campania

For centuries expats have enthusiastically lived in Italy. When they died, however, they often needed a place of final rest


September 17 2012 / Art & Archaeology

Lost Body Parts

Napoli, Campania

Neapolitans seem to have a thing for uninterred body parts. At the Duomo, for example, the bones of patron saint


May 24 2012 / Local Interest

Sea Naples and Revive

Naples, Campania

A few years ago I wrote about the pleasures of Sunday mornings by the sea in Naples. Traffic was banned


April 16 2012 / Events

The City of Miracles

Naples, Campania

Neapolitan locals will tell you it’s true. In Naples, you can witness two miracles and even ask for a personal


March 19 2012 / Art & Archaeology

Santa Caterina a Formello

Naples, Campania

Not far from the Porta Capuana, one of the ancient gates of Naples, stands a church with Renaissance roots. Originally


December 22 2011 / Local Interest

Street-life Nativity

Napoli, Campania

In a bustling narrow alleyway in downtown Naples, Neapolitan life and Naples’ highest craft traditions merge. I can’t imagine Christmas


November 10 2011 / Places

A View with a City

Napoli, Campania

App or map, you have to orientate yourself in an unfamiliar city. In Naples the view from the Castel Sant’Elmo


June 10 2010 / Local Interest

Bespoke spokes – Talarico Umbrellas

Napoli, Campania

In one of Naples’ dusky alleyways is a little umbrella factory that puts others in the shade. It was 150


October 2 2009 / Local Interest

A View of the Vomero

Naples, Campania

The classic postcard of Naples has four elements – blue sea, bluer sky, the pleasing curve of the bay and


July 7 2009 / Places

Villa Floridiana

Naples

If Naples is a feast of sound and colour, the Villa Floridiana is the mint tea to follow, refreshing, green


May 8 2009 / Art & Archaeology

A Puzzle at Pozzuoli

Pozzuoli

For enthusiasts of construction games and puzzles, the Flavian Amphitheatre at Pozzuoli is intriguing. In the ruins of the third


May 6 2009 / Local Interest

The Man Behind the Mask

Rione Sanita', Napoli

Brunello Leone was an architect who gave up his career in 1978. He did not win the lottery, nor did


April 23 2009 / Local Interest

La Nunziatella

Napoli

Some people have fairies at the bottom of their garden. We have the oldest military academy in Europe at the


March 27 2009 / Places

Il Castel dell’Ovo

Naples

The magnificent Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle) dominates the Naples seafront. This sophisticated sandcastle – see where the spade sliced down


February 4 2009 / Places

The Colours of Corricella

Corricella, Procida

On the island of Procida is a village that still uses its fishing boats when so many other little towns