March 12 2013 / Local Interest

La Bomboniera


Spring in Italy ushers in the season of mild temperatures, blooming flowers, and—inevitably–la ceremonia. Italy is, of course, a traditionally

March 6 2013 / Local Interest

La Veglia, Rural Fireside Chat


Rural after-dinner fireside chats – called la veglia – once warmed winter nights, literally and figuratively as farm families gathered

February 26 2013 / Food & Wine

Persimmon Nut Bread of the Gods


Drive through the late fall/early winter Umbrian countryside and you might be lucky enough to see a tree with orange

February 19 2013 / Art & Archaeology

On the Road with Perugino

Citta' della Pieve, Umbria

Born in Citta della Pieve, Pietro Vanucci became one of the most famous of the classical High Renaissance painters. He

February 15 2013 / Events

The Winter Saints

Perugia, Umbria

I’ve dubbed them santi d’inverno (winter saints), three patron saints of Umbrian medieval towns, Trevi, Foligno and Perugia: early Christian

February 7 2013 / Local Interest

The Voglia and the Doglia

Umbria, Italy

During my first pregnancy in 1979, shopping at the outdoor mercato took a while as every vendor tried to give

January 30 2013 / Local Interest

Kiss and Tell in Vicolo Baciadonne!

Citta' della Pieve, Umbria

Citta’ della Pieve has many churches to be sure, hence the name “city of the churches”. Perched atop a cliff

January 17 2013 / Local Interest

The Edicola; from Deities to Newspapers

Assisi, Umbria

In the Greco-Roman ancient world – and even in ancient Egypt –  edicole flanked imposing city entrances or temples (or were

January 7 2013 / Events

La Festa Della Vecchiarella

Monterubiaglio, Umbria

… old woman with candy! Very similar to the more well-known Italian holiday tradition of La Befana, on the eve

December 14 2012 / Local Interest

Sculptures on Assisi rooftops

Assisi, Umbria

As you stroll Assisi – and many other medieval hill towns – walk “bi-focally”: one eye down to watch your

December 5 2012 / Food & Wine

The Carapace of Bevagna

Bevagna, Umbria

A giant futuristic tortoise is poised a grassy hills in Umbria near Bevagna. No one is filming a thriller out

November 29 2012 / Art & Archaeology

The Etruscan Next Door: Part II


(…continued from here) Women’s Liberation, B.C. In Etruscan society, women were respected and fully engaged in their community.  You might

November 26 2012 / Events

Unto, nothing unctuous about it at all!

Assisi, Umbria

Here in Assisi, we certainly hope that the November UNTO festival will not in any way be the final or last oil (as

November 19 2012 / Art & Archaeology

The Etruscan Next Door

The Etruscans are in the news again!  Claudio Bizzarri of the Parco Archeologico Ambientale dell’Orvietano has uncovered the first of

November 16 2012 / Food & Wine

Alessandro Pistoni, cured pork Maestro

Campi, Umbria

(..part of this great series of five notes.) After a series of hairpin curves, we stopped in the tiny town of

November 14 2012 / Events

Corri dall’oliva


Santa Caterina, lascia la ghianda e corri dall’oliva, the Umbrian farmers counsel. (“For St Catherine’s (Nov. 25th), leave the acorns

November 8 2012 / Local Interest

Terre dei Santi: Land of the Saints


Most people know of Umbria as the “Green Heart of Italy”, but it is also called the “Terre dei Santi”,

November 5 2012 / Food & Wine

Pasta Dolce


A few days ago, Peppa was sitting on a bench near her chicken coop, splitting open walnuts open with a

October 31 2012 / Places

The Mummies of Ferentillo

Ferentillo, Umbria

In this little town, under the seemingly innocent church of Santo Stefano, lies a mystery that has never been solved…

October 18 2012 / Food & Wine

Friends’ vendemmia

Otricoli, Terni

Nestled among the rolling hills of southern Umbria is a winery which boasts an intriguing history: it represents a lifelong

October 10 2012 / Local Interest

Poco ma buono


That’s what the wine experts unanimously declare for the 2012 vintage. The lack of rain and intense summer heat hampered

October 8 2012 / Food & Wine

Ernesto Tiberi’s Pecorino and Ricotta

Norcia, Umbria

(..part of this great series) Cheese seller Agriturismo Quarantotti was the next stop on our shopping list. Flavio and owner Ernesto