A View of the Vomero

October 2, 2009 / Local Interest
Naples, Campania

The classic postcard of Naples has four elements – blue sea, bluer sky, the pleasing curve of the bay and the dimpled cone of Vesuvius. That’s all very well and we like it a lot, but sometimes the weather or the city mood invites us to another experience altogether.

Consider then the streets of the Vomero district, the ones set back from the shops and traffic, the ones where discreet, bourgeois life crumbles along. Here is a place to rival those of Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s old Barcelona or Peter Ackroyd’s London if melancholy wandering is what you’re after.

vomero2Where are the cliché festooned washing, the scugnizzi (steet kids) kicking the battered football, the droning scooters or the cheerful crash and prang of afternoon traffic? A world away from these palazzi with their graceful balconies and secrets obscured by palm fronds. Here the afternoon pausa (break) is undisturbed. Here a cat has time to dream.

It’s never on a postcard, but it’s Naples all the same, and as beguiling in its way.
(Two more photos below…)



Penny Ewles-Bergeron

by Penny Ewles-Bergeron

Author, artist… celebrating the many good things in Naples.

11 Responses to “A View of the Vomero”

  1. Rosemary

    Naples has so much more to offer those who look deeper than the expected. I fell in love with the city and it’s many different faces! We tried to explore a different area each time we visited and were always amazed at what we discovered.

  2. Frank Scaramella

    Beautiful pictures that could have been even more so complete with one of Mergellina sea shore taken at sundown!Who can ever forget the Caflish,s advertisement in via Roma :Sfogliatelle a tutte le ore, sempre calde come il cuore! with some continuous steam coming out of the coffee cup designed on the advertisement on top of the entrance.And what about the Neapolitan pizzas knwn the world over?
    No wonder the Neapolitans tell evryone to see Naples before d….

  3. garrett phelan

    My name is Garrett and I live in Rochester, New York. I play the Mandolin (poorly, but happily!). Could you do a piece on the wonderful Mandolin makers of Italy, especially the Neapolitan type, the kind we Americans affectionately call “tater backs” (potato backs). I dream of visiting Rome and Naples, to see the great ruins of a lost world and to purchase an authentic “tater back”. Thanx, Garrett

  4. Theresa Sheneman

    Loved this article – Naples is very dear to my heart since my father was born there – I have seen it and have its beauty in my mind

  5. Karen-Louise Taylor

    Finally someone is mentioning and showing us photos of the facinating side of Naples which others never do.

  6. Penny Ewles-Bergeron
    Penny Ewles-Bergeron

    Karen – thanks for the link. Great blog!
    Garrett – I shall ask my daughter’s violin teacher (much plugged into the music scene here) about mandolin making in Naples. She has a couple of mandolins in her home. Not sure how fast I can move on that one, but I’ll try!

    Thanks everybody for all your comments. Much appreciated. Cordiali saluti, Penny


    Dear Penney,
    Thanx for taking note of my message. I’d appreciate any info you have. Where are you located? In the states, Italy (lucky you!)? does your daughter play the mandolin? It is strung and tuned just like a violin so perhaps she does. Thanx again. Garrett

  8. Penny Ewles-Bergeron
    Penny Ewles-Bergeron

    Hi Garrett – I’m in Naples. No, my daughter plays violin. I can ask editor GB to send you my email address. best, Penny


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