April 17 2014 / Places

Poppi: Castles and Falcons

Poppi, Tuscany

Medieval churches and hilltop castles crowning gently curving slopes – emerald green in springtime, sprinkled with wildflowers like confetti –


April 4 2014 / Local Interest

L’Aquila Must Soar again

L'Aquila, Abruzzo

L’Aquila (“the eagle”) must once again take flight: now, its wings are fractured. Graced with medieval churches and elegant Renaissance and


March 24 2014 / Places

Trequanda Treasures and Curiosities

Trequanda, Tuscany

Incredible: treasures wherever you head in Italy, no matter how tiny, how “insignificant” the locale. This country is a treasure


March 7 2014 / Food & Wine

Pleasures of Piacenza

Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna

Founded by the Romans, devastated by the Goths and resurrected by medieval noble families, this elegant Emilia Romagna city flourished


February 26 2014 / Food & Wine

World’s Best Street Food

Palermo, Sicily

The world’s oldest – and best – “street food”? It’s that of Palermo where – for centuries – the piazzas


February 11 2014 / Art & Archaeology

Bewitched

Foligno, Umbria

People might line up to see a president, to ask a star’s autograph, to shake hands with a music idol,


January 30 2014 / Food & Wine

The Torcolo of San Costanzo

Perugia, Umbria

The Torcolo di San Costanzo is a rich raisin, pinon, and citron-laden, sweet bread created in honor of San Costanzo,


January 15 2014 / Events

Sant’Antonio’s Dish

Santa Maria degli Angeli, Umbria

“Che Sant’Antonio li benedica” (May St. Anthony bless them), an elderly signore murmured as he caressed the collies. Patron saint of


December 20 2013 / Events

Natale del Poverello

Assisi, Umbria

In Assisi, the contest of “presepi artistici” is on! The locals (including school classes) create cribs in every imaginable artistic


December 11 2013 / Places

Tuscan Treasures in Winter Hibernation

Chiusdino, Tuscany

The hilltowns of central Italy slumber in winter hibernation: no tourists at all and not many “locals” affront icy winds


November 26 2013 / Food & Wine

Il Tacchino di Pino

Umbria

While personally we do celebrate Thanksgiving despite that fact that it is not a holiday here in Italy, we no


November 21 2013 / Food & Wine

Peara’… not la pera

Verona, Veneto

Don’t confuse “peará” (an accent on that final “a”) with “pera” (“pear”). A cucina povera dish originating in the 9th-century


November 11 2013 / Local Interest

Castiglione del Lago: It’s for the Birds

Castiglion del Lago, Umbria

“It’s for the birds”. Well, it was almost ”for the birds”, that medieval guard tower of Castiglione del Lago overlooking Lake


October 29 2013 / Events

Saffron Takes Over

Citta' della Pieve, Umbria

Try to excise Italy from its culinary traditions? Impossible. Italians socialize over food, and live their town’s traditions through culinary


October 9 2013 / Local Interest

Note from a Papagirl

Assisi, Umbria

Daniela and Paola sipped cappuccini dreamily in “Papal euphoria” the day after Pope Francis’ visit to Assisi on October 4th.


July 23 2013 / Food & Wine

Tartufi.. here yet?

Umbria

In early July, Severino and Italo, local farmers and passionate tartufari, were speculating on the debut of this summer’s scorzone (black summer


July 5 2013 / Events

Jazz Passione Takes Over Perugia

Perugia, Umbria

As he hobbled across the stage, head of fluffy white hair bobbing, clutching his sax, he brought the delirious crowds


June 14 2013 / Events

Fire and Dew for San Giovanni

Grello, Umbria

In the tiny Umbrian mountain village, Grello (pop. 45), the celebrations around the solstice have no one standing still: young men


May 30 2013 / Local Interest

Sant’Anatolia’s new museum

Sant'Anatolia di Narco, Umbria

As you come out of the 5-kilometer tunnel linking the Umbrian Valley to the Valnernina, you enter another world: poppies


May 15 2013 / Local Interest

Passione for Journalism

Perugia, Umbria

As we waited to hear the panel discussion “Syria – civil war or media war?”, I asked Giacomo, a 24


April 30 2013 / Places

Nothing missing in Vallo di Nera

Vallo di Nera, Umbria

We met ninety-four year old Settimio, out for his daily morning stroll, as we entered the charming Nera River Valley


April 11 2013 / Food & Wine

La Roveja, che zuppa!

Cascia, Umbria

The coldest spring in fifty years calls for zuppa di roveja! We first tried this “bonta’” on an icy January


March 28 2013 / Local Interest

Blessed Easter Abundance

Umbria

Driving through the Umbrian countryside during the week prior to Easter, you’ll note whiffs of smoke drifting up from the


March 15 2013 / Local Interest

Excitement in Assisi

Assisi, Umbria

In Assisi, euphoria reigns in the Sacro Convento – the Franciscan monastery attached to the 13th century Basilica di San