Touching Nola’s Cultural Intangible

July 1, 2016 / Events
Nola, Campania

Ostensibly, you can’t touch an “intangible”. We just did. And at a deep level. Ever since hearing about the 2013 UNESCO’s inclusion as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity of Italy’s four Big Shoulder-Born Processional Structures, I’d set my sights on every procession, each structure (“macchina,” in Italian). My first? Viterbo’s astounding La Macchina di Santa Rosa. Palmi (Calabria) and Sassari (Sardegna) – hometowns of La Varia and the Candelieri processions – are treks from Umbria… But we made the late June Festa dei Gigli (“Festival of the Lilies”) in Nola (near Naples) – and we’re still recovering.

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You have to slowly ease out from the emotional cyclone of days living the delirious nolana passione for the celebration of patron saint, Bishop San Paolino – and not just the living it, but hearing it! For days preceding the carrying of the Gigli – the Sunday after San Paolino’s feast, June 22nd (date of his death in 431 A.D.) – typical musica nolana surrounds you, enveloping Nola. That Neapolitan music with marching beat will set the rhythms for the carrying of eight four-ton Gigli, by teams of 120 – 140 men (la paranza), Sunday morning, then all the following night.

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Music throbs in winding alleyways, palazzi courtyards, and the piazzas where the eight elegant carved gigli tower 25 meters above groups of musicians playing for jubilant locals dancing to the beating rhythms, clapping, waving scarves and fans, blowing whistles dangling around necks. All know the rhythms; they’ve grown up with that pulsing beat accompanying the moves of the eight Gigli on the Sunday of the Festa.

LOvING It
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GIGLI JOY
GIGLI PASION OF ALL

On that Sunday, each Giglio, a splendid sentinel (once of papier mache’, now of styrofoam base, too), rises on a wooden quadrilateral platform, encircled by seated musicians, all carried on the shoulders of the Giglio’s cullatori. Cullatori – “cradlers” – refers to the rocking movements of these men in harmony with the music, united with arms linked, following the directives of their four caporali at the corners of each giglio base. Caporali set the rhythms, directing the paces of the panting, grimacing – at times, moaning – cullatori swaying, prancing in unison to the beats of the band seated on top of their backs. Some cullatori, carrying the Gigli for decades, have backs deformed with mounded callouses, sported proudly.

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La Festa dei Gigli ostensibly honors Nola’s 5th-century bishop, commemorating his return by sea from captivity by the barbarians, joyous nolani welcoming the arriving boat waving lilies (and la barca, too, will be in the midst of the Gigli on Sunday). But look again at those eight obelisks: clearly phallic. And this is summer solstice time, when the Romans bore homages to their deities for rich harvests to the temples: bound sheaves of grains, set alight – as the Gigli once were, for this festival’s roots are ancient.

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LA BARCA ENTERs SQUARE

And once again the pagan and Christian unite and blend harmoniously in Italy’s festivals of passione.

We lived la passione nolana thanks to Gianni. Red-haired young nolano engineer, Gianni now works in Tuscany but heads home for the Gigli, logicamente, as do New Yorkers we met of nolano descendancy – though none were cullatori– eager to reunite with their paranza. Like Gianni. He was home to embrace his Giglio – and the festival. And Gianni embraced us, too, right from his advice on choice of B&B to tips on best fish ristoranti, his favorite cafe’ and gelaterie, Nola historic sites, festive moments not-to-miss, how to take the guided walking tour of the Gigli – and where to be on Sunday morning as the Gigli entered the main piazza backdropped by the Duomo, where San Paolino is buried (eight elegant Gigli processional banners flanking his flower-laden altar).

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By Sunday, we were in the throes of “Gigli passione.” When did it start?

Probably Friday night, joining Gianni and friends for a pre-festa dinner to the beat of the musica nolana, all up to dance, sing between courses. Nolano fervor was contagious We felt it during our one-hour guided walk with impassioned young Giulia from Giglio-to-Giglio (passing small, hand-crafted gigli in many Nola shop windows and cafes) – and while hearing the stories of Gianni’s uncle, once a caporale for his paranza. Nola kept on embracing us: we visited Gianni’s home, his father welcoming us with his homemade nocino (walnut liqueur) and his mother, with typical Gigli sweets. In the Duomo, I saw children praying before the San Paolino altar in the Duomo, their father reaching up to reverently touch the silver bust of the Saint (carried in Procession during the festivities): “Thanks to him, I survived a car accident”.

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And on Sunday morning walking to the main piazza where the eight Gigli and la barca di San Paolino would soon converge, peaking emotions, explosive enthusiasm surrounded us. We passed piazzas with Gigli in the center, encircled by dancing, singing, clapping nolani in paroxysms of delirium. In Piazza Giordano Bruno, la Festa dei Gigli hit us like a tsunami wave, washing us away: indescribable the emotional shock of first sight of a Giglio lifted up by 120 linked men, prancing to the rhythms of the band playing on the platform on their backs. Pino gasped, then grinned, then clapped. I just furtively rubbed away unexpected tears slipping down my cheeks.

LA BARCA GLORY

Gianni, you shared so much with us – but nothing could possibly prepare us for the rhapsody of Gigli emotions.

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We were far more than just “touched” by this ”Intangible.”

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BETTOLLIERE group in euphoria
BETTOLLIERE GLORY
BETTOLIERE ENTHUSIASM
BETOLIERE GIGLIO group
5 in the SQUARE

A video of Gianni’s paranza:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcCDks_3Kik

Anne Robichaud

by Anne Robichaud

An authorized Umbrian tour guide, Anne and her husband Pino worked the land for many years in the 1970’s so rural life, rural people, rural cuisine are una passione for her. See Umbria from “the inside”: join her May 2017 ten-day tour centered on discovering Umbria, Anne’s Umbria.

See www.annesitaly.com for more on her Umbria tours. Do see www.stayassisi.com for news on the Assisi apartment – and Assisi countryside guest house – she and Pino now rent out.

Anne writes frequently on Umbria and other areas of Italy. Read about her annual U.S. Feb/Mar cooking classes and lectures, as well as her numerous Italy insights on her blog.

28 Responses to “Touching Nola’s Cultural Intangible”

  1. frank martino

    The festa of the Gigli just finished in our old neighborhood in Brooklyn. Wonderful to see the original. Thank you

    Reply
  2. Brit and Frank

    We read your article, looked at the pictures, watched the video, and we still can’t believe it.

    Reply
  3. Joe Studlick

    Anne is THE Umbrian expert. She will make you welcome and show your the usual sites but more importantly the sites you would have never found.

    Reply
  4. Katie Larsh

    What an amazing story of the celebration de Nola! I loved all the photos and the videos really brought it all to life! The Italians surely know how to celebrate and keep their traditions alive, but you bring it out to the world, Annie! Thank you so much for a great visit this July 4th weekend. and Happy Anniversary to you for your 40 years of sharing your love of Italy! Be sure to give Pino a hello hug too! I love seeing him in participate as you capture the photos! Gracie!

    Reply
  5. Marsha

    Wow, lovely! A very exciting documentation of a fascinating festival. Thanks Anne. I really want to get back to Italy!

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  6. Rosemary Johnson

    Always love the detail and pictures that accompany each story!! Am attending a reunion in August that includes some people you know and will send you a photo this weekend that was sent to me. Go Italy!!

    Reply
  7. Jenny Hannan

    Ahh! Last time I was there for the festa was 31 years ago. Remember the candles all along the streets, over the bridges … all as you climb up to get to the centre of this exquisite hill town. Thanks Annie, enjoyed it all. Love and love, Jen

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  8. karen kotoske

    Annie, I felt like I was there with you at Festa dei Gigli/Nola in your amazing photos from construction to the wild winding through the streets. Viva tradizione Italiana and all the cacaphony ,craziness and beauty. I loved seeing Pino enjoying himself so immensely. Wish it could have been so last night when Italy so narrowly lost to Germany, the tears are flowing around the world for Italy (who should have gotten the win.)

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  9. Sam Moss

    Wow! What insight to a time honored celebration. You made us feel like we were there. Thank you, Annie

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  10. Pamela Butler

    Anne,

    Fantastic photos and blog post. What a celebration!
    Miss you.

    Reply
  11. Rosemarie

    Another great article with amazing pictures from Anne! It is just like being there! Great pictures of you and Pino in there too! Thanks Anne! :)

    Reply
  12. Marianna Raccuglia

    Just loved this most wonderful article and SPECTACULAR photos. I had attended a similar festa in Williamsburg, Brooklyn honoring the same saint. Such heartwarming traditions.
    Thank you, Anne xx

    Reply
  13. Jean Scalessa

    Anne Robichaud’s writing hypnotizes the reader….perfectly capturing the scenes….the energy, emotions…..while informing and inspiring. One of her earlier articles inspired me to attempt to recreate the beautiful floral procession in Bucchanico Abruzzo…Festa dei Banderesi. In Wilmington DE on June 12 and June 19…..St. Anthony of Padua Parish Italian Festival.. my new cultural alliance -A.R.I.A.N.N.A. – introduced our version….Sfilata dei Fiori ….to a very welcoming and enthusiastic community. Thank you Anne!

    Reply
  14. Louise Black

    Another great article. I love the pictures, probably because everyone is so happy!

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  15. Domenico Piccolomini

    Anne, Where do you and Pino get your energy?

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  16. James Wells

    Wonderful to learn about this festa nolana and its traditions.

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  17. Sally

    Thanks, Anne, that is an amazing festival. I never heard of it before. I loved the article and the photos! Fun to see you and Pino, too!

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  18. Victoria De Maio

    Fabulous, Anne! How wonderful that you could attend and participate and really enjoy (and relate!) the exuberance and festive atmosphere. Being at one of these festivals has to be on all of our lists!

    Reply
  19. Melissa Kelley

    This looks amazing! I cannot wait to return to your Umbria again, I do believe I’d follow you anywhere Anne! Thank you for sharing. Your enthusiasm is purely contagious! Pace e Bene!!

    Reply

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