Exploring Scheggino

June 4, 2015 / Local Interest
Scheggino, Umbria

Inspired by Anne Robichaud, intrepid guide to all wonders Umbrian, we hopped in the car and travelled to Scheggino. We stayed in an albergo diffuso – a hotel with diverse rooms and apartments spread around town – which was perfectly delightful (Antica Torre del Nera).

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We ate at the restaurant (more a bar atmosphere, really, with plastic tables, no tablecloths) Anne had recommended (Giardino delle Naiadi), where the river trout and truffle sauces were indeed delicious. But then we started exploring on our own.

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We discovered a terrific adventure park (Activo Park) where you can shoot paint balls at your friends and swing through the trees and ride a go cart. Then we headed off on a little walk… which turned into 4 kilometers straight up. From Scheggino to Caso, there is a 500 meter difference in level, but it was worth the sweat and tears. The views were spectacular, and entering Caso itself was like walking into a presepe.

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We met just two inhabitants. One was a cute mutt, who seemed happy to see us, the other was Cosimo, the self-proclaimed “tartufaro di Caso”. (Truffle hunter of Caso) We found him weeding his tiny terraced vegetable garden and he explained that he escapes to Caso for a little peace and quiet… from the big city of Spoleto!

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Another good thing about this hike was that it justified yet another hearty meal. Scheggino’s Osteria serves wonderful home-cooked food, and the price is right. There is no menu – you eat whatever is fresh and ready – but it is all delicious. And the suggestive décor – bare brick walls, colorful table settings, family-friendly environment – rounds off the pleasant experience.

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Gyneth Sick

by Gyneth Sick

Gyneth has lived in Rome longer than anywhere else in the world, and still doesn’t want to leave. By day she edits the English version of ASPENIA, Aspen Institute Italia’s highly regarded journal on international affairs, and by night she plays the blues! Check out her two bands The Bucket Band and BRASS OFF!!

4 Responses to “Exploring Scheggino”

  1. John Forsman

    I will only believe this is Umbria if there is also a good place to eat. Isn’t the hike an excuse to eat?

    Reply
  2. Ginny Siggia

    Ah, Scheggino. So many fond memories of a long week spent there with Berkshire Choral International (berkshirechoral.org). I had the good fortune to have Anne Robichaud herself as one of our tour guides. What an amazing little village Scheggino is. QUIET (no airplanes overhead), non-touristy (no “souvenir of Scheggino” T-shirts), delicious food (I’d never had broiled trout), and at least five places to buy gelato. It was a place to unwind, and be not a tourist, but a welcomed visitor. AFTER I arrived, I was surprised to discover a big blue express bus to/from Spoleto. I had taken the cheap (2 Euro) local bus, which held about 12 passengers and struggled to accommodate my American baggage. It zipped around the windy, hilly roads, stopping at each frazione (several with populations under 25), and I swear the driver doubled back. As I turned hideous shades of green, the driver assured me that we were only five minutes from our destination. Hah! Five times five, more likely. Well, I got to meet a lot of nice people, who politely did not laugh at my baggage, but instead welcomed me to Italy and all points therein. It was the kind of place you have to approach as a blank slate, and let the adventure work its magic on you.

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