Inspired by Anne Robichaud, intrepid guide to all wonders Umbrian, we hopped in the car and travelled to Scheggino. We stayed in an albergo diffuso – a hotel with diverse rooms and apartments spread around town – which was perfectly delightful (Antica Torre del Nera).
We ate at the restaurant (more a bar atmosphere, really, with plastic tables, no tablecloths) Anne had recommended (Giardino delle Naiadi), where the river trout and truffle sauces were indeed delicious. But then we started exploring on our own.
We discovered a terrific adventure park (Activo Park) where you can shoot paint balls at your friends and swing through the trees and ride a go cart. Then we headed off on a little walk… which turned into 4 kilometers straight up. From Scheggino to Caso, there is a 500 meter difference in level, but it was worth the sweat and tears. The views were spectacular, and entering Caso itself was like walking into a presepe.
We met just two inhabitants. One was a cute mutt, who seemed happy to see us, the other was Cosimo, the self-proclaimed “tartufaro di Caso”. (Truffle hunter of Caso) We found him weeding his tiny terraced vegetable garden and he explained that he escapes to Caso for a little peace and quiet… from the big city of Spoleto!
Another good thing about this hike was that it justified yet another hearty meal. Scheggino’s Osteria serves wonderful home-cooked food, and the price is right. There is no menu – you eat whatever is fresh and ready – but it is all delicious. And the suggestive décor – bare brick walls, colorful table settings, family-friendly environment – rounds off the pleasant experience.