(map) 
One of the glories of Neapolitan cuisine is fresh fish. Even Brits like me whose only childhood encounter with fish was battered cod and chips can appreciate the range and exotic repertoire of fish drawn from the Bay of Naples. The fresher the better, of course, so it’s down to Mergellina on the lungomare (beach front promenade) to get the latest catch.
The fishermen have been up for hours netting these beauties; now they present the fish for sale, kept lively with cold water piped across the pans.
This is not the market for bulk buying – but a place where a cook who is passionate about seafood can find inspiration for lunch or supper.
And on a sunny day (this is, after all, Naples) half the pleasure is the walk along the seafront and the salt tang of the water and the catch as you buy.
And you’ll see the cats turn up too – in the hope that not all the fish is destined for a bowl of pasta.
(Three more photos..)
– Written by Penny Ewles-Bergeron (see bio), writer, artist, … finding the many good things in Naples.
puro gusto quando fresco
Dear Penny,
This was a great piece on Il Lungomare. I want want to be back in Naples! We all still miss our wonderful life there! Keep enjoying it and keep writing! Take care! Christine
Thank you for your brightly colored pictures and narrative. I know many people who don’t like Naples but I love it — the Vespas and other vehicles crowding streets; pedestrians having to run across the streets to avoid cars; taxi drivers taking the far right exit from the far left driving lane; the animated way Italians express themselves and so on and so on. Ahhhhh, Napoli!
The most unforgettable lunch of my life was in Naples. Three and a half hours of fresh fish of every kind one could imagine. Platter after platter just kept coming to the table. Don’t know the name of the ristorante. It was high on a hill and my host and the 2 other guests sat under a pergola of wisteria. Vesuvius was on my left in the distance. The memory of the fresh fish that day will stay with me forever.
This piece was done so well. You have a fine delicate touch, and a great eye.
Tank you