San Martino, Castagne e Vino

November 15, 2011
Italy

sanmartino1 220x296 San Martino, Castagne e VinoThe Chapel dedicated to San Martino and frescoed by Simone Martini in the 14th-century is certainly one of the masterpieces in our Basilica di San Francesco. St. Martin of Tours, 4th-century saint, is pictured as he gives his cloak to a freezing beggar outside the walls of Amiens. According to legend, the beggar will reveal himself as Christ. The association is there: St. Martin, the bringer of warmth.

In Italy, in fact, a spell of warm weather following the first freeze is called “l’estate di San Martino” (the summer of St. Martin”, i.e., the “Indian summer” in Anglo-Saxon cultures). Due to an inordinately warm fall this year, la Festa di San Martino, November 11th, was warm and sunny but did not fall during un’estate di San Martino: we haven’t yet had the first freeze.

sanmartino2 220x331 San Martino, Castagne e VinoIn rural cultures, the mezzadria (share-cropping) contracts were stipulated during this period, with termination of some contracts and the renewal of others. At this time, farm families might move into a farmhouse on another farm; in fact, “fare San Martino” means “to make a move”. An old Italian proverb announces the Saint’s feast day as the time to slaughter the pig and enjoy wine, “San Martino, uccidi il maiale e bevi il vino“. That might have been possible years ago – when November brought the cold weather needed for the curing of prosciutto.

A Piedmontese saying, “Oche, castagne e vino, tieni tutto per San Martino.” (“Geese, chestnuts and wine, save it all for San Martino”) refers to the period before Advent when farm families indulged in abundant meals before the “lean” period prior to Christmas. And legend says that when St. Martin was elected bishop of Tours, he hid in the countryside, preferring the contemplative life. A flock of screeching migrating geese revealed his hiding place. Wine consistently stars in the many sayings of this feast day. “Chi vuol far buon vino, zappi e poti a San Martino” (“For a good wine, hoe and prune at San Martino”); that is, the vines should be pruned after the grapes are picked and before new growth.

(Note on celebrating San Martino coming next…)

sanmartino3 San Martino, Castagne e Vino


Anne Robichaud

Contributed by Anne Robichaud (see bio) - Anne is home in Assisi (Umbria) now after a very full 7-week coast-to-coast cooking lessons/lectures tour; (her itinerary is here: annesitaly.com/USevents.html#UpcomingUSTours). In the US, Anne lectured and also taught Umbrian rural cuisine in private homes - sharing the secrets of the farm friends who have taught her and husband Pino much since they moved to Umbria in 1975. Anne offers guided tours of the Umbrian hilltowns, and cooking classes in their Assisi area farmhouse (see www.annesitaly.com/Cooking.html). She writes frequently on Umbria and other areas of Italy. See www.annesitaly.com for more on her US EVENTS, tours, cooking classes – and her blog!


2 responses to “San Martino, Castagne e Vino”

  1. Lyn Beckenham

    Story on San Martino full of intresting usable bits of knowledge and the common use Italian phrases that are useful to know. Enjoyed this!

  2. Lee Sorenson

    Good article, and wonderful photos. Thanks.

Leave a Reply