The Trastevere neighborhood in central Rome is famous for its cobblestone vicoli (alleyways), medieval charm and bustling nightlife. Monteverde instead (literally green hill), while not as well known to tourists and rarely frequented by many Romans, is considered one of the most enviable neighborhoods in the city. Perched atop the Gianicolo hill (the highest in Rome), Monteverde towers over Trastevere below and truly looks down upon the rest of the city.
But perhaps more than the neighborhoods themselves, the many staircases connecting the two are exquisite. The staircases contain their own stories and are filled with secrets.
For example, a plaque next to the Scalea del Tamburino bears a quote by the spaghetti western film director Sergio Leone, who grew up here,
which states, “The way I see things is naïve, a little infantile but sincere, like the children on the staircase of Viale Glorioso.”
These scale (staircases) bind the two contrasting communities of Monteverde and Trastevere together and are a joy to explore. Although perhaps it is best to walk DOWN from one to the other unless you’re hoping to get some serious exercise in!

-- Contributed by Ian Zurzolo, writer, editor, American University of Rome Senior, Italian Notebook Editorial Intern.

(map) 







March 5th, 2010 at 2:00 pm
I loved this one! Another of the great little secrets that one can find by looking at Italian Notebook! Many thanks- I can’t wait to try the steps and long for a return to Rome to do it! best from Pat Carney
March 5th, 2010 at 3:38 pm
Thanks for the compliments Pat. I’m lucky enough to walk these steps every day from my apartment in Trastevere up to my university.
Hope you can make it back to Rome soon, its always calling.
March 5th, 2010 at 4:01 pm
This is indeed beautiful area, but be sure to take Ian’s advice: walking down is definitely easier. I’d also recommend not trying to do it – as a friend and I did once -in the middle of July, either – really a wonderful spot, but very hot there in summer to be climbing all those steps. ;-) Thanks, Ian – great post!
March 5th, 2010 at 4:44 pm
Wonderful post, this one’s a winner!
I have lived in Rome my entire life but I truly had no idea there were so many “scalinate” connecting Trastevere to Green Hill!
Thank you Ian for taking me there today, and showing me a new part of my city. I will definitely go and discover more secrets.
Ciao,
Eleonora
March 5th, 2010 at 4:50 pm
Thank you so much Ian for sharing this wonderful neighborhood. I have fallen hopelessly with Rome and I spend the rest of the year planning my next trip. Having never been, I will certainly plan on including Monteverde in my itinerary when I visit in the Fall.
March 5th, 2010 at 9:46 pm
What a beautiful view from above. I’d like to tour Italy by following all your Italian Notebook spots of interest. What has been your favorite so far?
March 9th, 2010 at 7:39 pm
I grew up in Monteverde…this made me very melancholy!! :)