(map) Genoa, Liguria
Immersed in forested hills and composed of stylistically uniform and seemingly endless colonnades, lies the monumental cemetery of Staglieno in Genoa. The enchanting natural setting reminds one more of a villa with blossoming gardens or a museum rather than a 19th century cemetery. The sprawling burial ground covers 330,000 square meters, with 117,600 tombs and a collection of sculptures that rivals those from the best museums in Europe.
After its opening to the public in 1851, the Ligurian aristocracy of the era competed in outdoing one another’s self-glorification by commissioning sculptures of themselves in hyper-realist detail. Their vain legacy represents the model of taste and behavior of the ruling classes of the times. All of which is to our benefit, considering the remarkable grace and emotive qualities of the sculptures.
Perhaps Mark Twain said it best upon visiting Staglieno: “These far-reaching ranks of bewitching forms are a hundred fold more lovely than the damaged and dingy statuary they have saved from the wreck of ancient art and set up in the galleries of Paris for the worship of the world.”
Tip: After walking through corridors of sculptures, take the 10 minute bus “tour” that weaves through the hillside tombs of Risorgimento heroes, including Giuseppe Mazzini.
-- Contributed by Ian Zurzolo, writer, editor, American University of Rome Senior, Italian Notebook Editorial Intern.
November 16th, 2009 at 5:37 pm
I was amazed by this wonderful Note and was inspired to learn and see more about this cemetary. I Googled the name and found this website: http://www.flickr.com/places/Italy/Liguria/Genoa/San%20Sebastiano/?q=genova. It contains a photo gallery that you can scroll through with many, many images of the most exquisite statuary, memorializing the departed inhabitants. The incredible detail evokes many emotions. You will not find in the entire United States any cemetary that rivals the majesty and beauty of Stalieno in Genoa. Thank you Ian Zurzolo for sharing this treasure.
November 16th, 2009 at 6:01 pm
While visiting Prague in 2007 my wife and I spent an afternoon in the “National Cemetery”. There one will find astounding works of sculpture glorifying the departed. I think Gale is mostly correct in assuming that American cemeteries have nothing like it. Perhaps, and only perhaps, this is because of our intense feelings of American equality. In America it is in poor taste to glorify oneself or ones family, a value that didn’t exist in 18th or 19th century Europe? Not a critique. I love all things Europe and am proud to be of European descent. People migrate to Western Civilization, rarely do they leave.
November 16th, 2009 at 6:44 pm
Thanks for this article! Another entry for the list of places to see on my next trip to Italy. Also thanks to Gale for the link to the photos, they are amazing.
November 16th, 2009 at 7:19 pm
Sorry, Mr. Phelan, but America has plenty of the “marble orchards,” true testaments to arrogance and pompous misunderstanding of one’s place in the world. But as the article states, the statuary and workmanship is entertaining, even if my smileis a rueful one.
November 16th, 2009 at 8:52 pm
I NEVER KNEW SUCH A PLACE EXISTED. IT IS DEFINITELY ON MY “TO SEE” LIST
NEXT TRIP.THANK YOU GALE FOR THE WEBSITE TO LOOK AT.
November 16th, 2009 at 10:31 pm
I’m glad you liked the article, Gale!
I enjoyed the link you posted.
November 17th, 2009 at 3:50 am
I love the sculpture of the Angel with attitude.
November 17th, 2009 at 5:25 am
I’ve spent much time at the cemetery, and, yes, it could be called a 19th century fine arts museum… These are not “true testaments to arrogance and pompous misunderstanding…” To see the cemetery is to see that much of it is a beautiful poetic testement to love, some of the inscriptions render the heart and bring on tears. Yes, a cemetery and yes also a dedication to beautiful eternal love as can be read on inscriptions at the base of many of the monuments or statues. Also, not all the “residents” were of the ruling class. Remember that there is no smoking and men must remove hats in Italian cemeteries.
February 10th, 2010 at 9:59 pm
This cemetery has been on my “to do” list for a while now. Some day I will get there. And though it doesn’t get as much attention, Rome’s Verano Cemetery is incredibly beautiful and historic as well…
http://www.flickr.com/photos/triptorome2006/sets/72157622611798941/
March 20th, 2010 at 12:05 pm
This packrat has learned that what the next generation will value most is not what we owned, but the evidence of who we were and the tales of how we loved. In the end, it’s the family stories that are worth the storage.