July 5 2012 / Local Interest

Campanilismo Annulled for One Night

Bolsena, Lazio

Italy lost the European Cup final to Spain this past weekend in a resounding defeat, 4 to 0. No doubt


June 22 2012 / Uncategorized

Gubbio’s 20th-Century Martyrs

Gubbio, Umbria

On June 22nd at the Mausoleo dei Quaranta Martiri, Gubbio pays homage to the forty civilians shot by the Germans


June 13 2012 / Food & Wine

Gallina Vecchia…

Assisi, Umbria

Gallina vecchia fa’ buon brodo! “An old hen makes a good broth,” says an old Italian adage, lauding the wisdom of


June 1 2012 / Events

Porchettiamo

San Terenziano, Umbria

La porchetta, (pronounced por-KET-ta) noble street food of Umbria and central Italy in general, stars in the Porchettiamo festival. Best


May 18 2012 / Events

Narni: Medieval May Passione

Narni, Umbria

During the first three days of May In the 14th century, Narni town criers called young riders to join in


May 8 2012 / Events

La Balestra

Assisi, Umbria

In Umbria, you know spring is in the air when the balestrieri (“cross-bowers”) compete in the piazzas seated behind their


April 20 2012 / Places

Ohhh, Onna II

Onna, Abruzzo

(cont’d from here) We left the “new town” area of l’Aquila and headed to the ghost town of Onna, tiny


April 19 2012 / Places

Ohhhh, Onna

Onna, Abruzzo

We opened the shutters to the majestic snow-capped Gran Sasso (“big rock” and it IS). After breakfast, we headed to


April 10 2012 / Events

Medieval Street Theater on the Move

Assisi, Umbria

Countless religious customs – and innumerable processions in particular – are rooted in medieval street theater. Assisi’s Holy Thursday and


March 29 2012 / Events

Spellbound in Spello

Spello, Umbria

“Bello Spello, vero?”, an elderly woman asks me as she polishes her brass doorknob to a gleam. Above her head,


March 16 2012 / Food & Wine

Peperonata

Sicily

Bell peppers are no longer in the garden but in our freezer. We were recently snowed in and no salad


February 27 2012 / Food & Wine

Carnevale: Strufoli and Other Pleasures

Umbria

Carnevale festivities tie to celebrations of over two thousand years ago, the Roman Saturnali latini, days of a permitted transgression


February 14 2012 / Places

Offida’s Lace

Offida, Le Marche

Some local experts cite the fourteenth century as the onset of il merletto al tombolo (pillow spun lace) in Offida,


February 8 2012 / Places

Collepino

Collepino, Umbria

With the recent snow, the roads to Collepino will be impassable. Maybe not the last of the many castle-villages in


January 31 2012 / Local Interest

Buono come il pane – II

Umbria

(…cont’d from here) After sweeping, Mandina wiped the white hot bricks with a damp rag to remove any remaining ash,


January 30 2012 / Local Interest

Buono come il pane

Umbria

“As good as bread” is how the Italians describe a good-hearted, generous person. For the Greeks, bread was “the food


January 19 2012 / Local Interest

Sant’Antonio and the Malocchio

Umbria

Years ago when we farmed here in Umbria, an image of Sant’Antonio hung in every oxen stall – and his


January 13 2012 / Local Interest

Il Calendario del Sale (part II)

Umbria

(..cont’d from here) She and Paolo would check their calendario della cipolla in the cellar every day until January 6th,


January 12 2012 / Local Interest

Il Calendario del Sale

Umbria

Onions and salt to predict the weather in the New Year? Over our years on the land, I’ve learned how


December 22 2011 / Local Interest

Street-life Nativity

Napoli, Campania

In a bustling narrow alleyway in downtown Naples, Neapolitan life and Naples’ highest craft traditions merge. I can’t imagine Christmas


December 14 2011 / Food & Wine

Buona Forchetta

Imola, Emilia-Romagna

In Italy, una buona forchetta (a good fork) is not a favorite eating utensil, it’s someone who knows and relishes


December 5 2011 / Food & Wine

Ringraziamento, Then and Now

Italy

In the years we worked the land, we killed one of our own turkeys for the feast.  Pino did the


November 16 2011 / Local Interest

San Martino, Castagne e Vino II

Umbria

(cont’d from here..) Umbria welcomes in the Feast of St. Martin with the saying “San Martino, San Martino, castagne e