Every year for the last 544 years, the carpenters’ and the farmers’ guilds in the medieval Sardinian village of Oristano compete to organize the most spectacular day-long series of equestrian events to celebrate Carnevale and to ensure fertility and prosperity for the year ahead. This particular celebration of Carnevale, known as “Sa Sartiglia” in the Oristano dialect, takes place on the last Sunday and Tuesday of Carnevale. Several of the town’s streets are converted into racetracks, where 120 dazzlingly-costumed and masked riders urge their mounts to top speeds while seeking to spear a tin star with their swords, or perform daring acrobatics on their mounts’ backs while hurtling down the narrow streets. Meanwhile, the denizens of Oristano don their town’s traditional costumes and strut their stuff through the streets between horsey events.

But before the day’s events can even begin, a ceremony known as “La Vestizione de Su Componidori”, or the ritual dressing of the master horseman who will direct the festivities, takes place before a select group of observers. The Componidori is carefully selected by the top authority of the farmers’ guild and must be a man of good character, as well as an expert rider. Being chosen Componidori is an honor not to be taken lightly – he will be scrutinized as he directs the day’s high profile events. The success or failure of the Sartiglia can mean a good year or a bad year for the entire town. It’s hard enough to direct a complex public celebration under ordinary circumstances, but try to imagine being in charge while literally sewn into your costume and mask! During the Vestizione, two maidens of spotless reputation (and hopefully of good aim with a needle!) stitch the Componidori’s clothes on under the watchful eye of the matron, an experienced lady who ensures that the costume is assembled precisely according to tradition. (More below..)

Shirt, tunic, ribbons, mask, embroidered veil, top hat, and a camellia are all sewn into place as the horseman is transformed into the mysterious, androgynous figure of the Componidori. Once dressed, he mounts his lavishly decorated, nervously prancing charger within the close confines of the small guild hall where the Vestizione takes place, while the small gathering inside holds its communal breath. This year, the horse is particularly jumpy and plunges, kicking and leaping through the narrow doorway of the guild house and out into the streets. Everyone sighs and applauds as the Componidori sallies forth to bless the crowds of spectators with his bouquet of spring violets. After directing and participating in all of the day’s strenuous equestrian events without ever taking his mask off (in other words: no food or drink all day), the Componidori’s final feat is to race down the town’s streets lying flat on his horse’s back, waving in the spring with his bouquet of violets to the roar of the crowd.

– Photos and text contributed by Monique Quesada.