One look at the Palazzo dei Papi and you being to wonder whether someone had a play in mind and built the Palazzo as its set. Now rewind back to the mid-12th century and it does begin to read like a dramatic script…

Fredericks I and II from Germany, Holy Roman Emperors, called ghibelline (want temporal power, theirs, to be as strong as spiritual power, the Pope’s) on the one hand. On the other the Popes and their allies, called guelfs (spiritual power must rule over temporal powers). The two sides are having at it in central Italy and not only. For 100+ years both sides bolster their fortifications, build towns, forge alliances and create power bases.

The front line of this mostly cold-war, Viterbo, sees nothing but mass confusion, rulers alternating constantly, and attacks first by the ones and then the others. Even Viterbesi families are split internally… something has to give.

Sure enough, the Cardinals’ meeting being held in the Palazzo dei Papi to elect a new Pope in 1268 lasts THREE years, yielding no result. The Viterbesi at this point are simply fed up with both sides and take matters in their own hands. They tear the roof off the Palazzo to let the cold and rain in, leave nothing but water and bread for sustenance, and lock the fighting guelf and ghibelline Cardinals inside! Sure enough, the Cardinals elect a Pope in a snap… and things finally return to somewhat normal conditions.

Ever wonder where we get the word “conclave” from? In this incident, the cardinals were clausi cum clave, (literally, closed in by key), and the word and practice have been used ever since.

With history like this, who needs fiction? One look at this beautiful building is all you need.