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In the historic center of Rome you’re within blocks of it almost at all times, so sometimes it’s hard not to just pop in. Sure enough, before you know it you’re in the darkness and silence of San Luigi dei Francesi once more, hurrying over to the farthest chapel on the left, hair beginning to stand up on your neck once again.
Ignore the life-size The Martyrdom, also by Caravaggio, located in the 12 x 12 foot space of the Contarelli chapel as well. Failure to do so will result in art-awe overload. Instead, focus on the left wall.
Jesus saw a man sitting at the tax office, called Matthew, and said to him, “Follow me.” And Matthew rose and followed Him. That’s about it as far as the New Testament goes (Matthew: 9-9). Caravaggio, baroque maverick, tormented artist, couldn’t just leave it at that. Here’s his version . .
It is a dark world (room) and a tedious life (counting coins), but a window (notice how it’s in the shape of a cross) permits The Light to enter. A young Jesus (barefoot, therefore even more otherworldly) appears out of the shadows and effortlessly calls Matthew (except that His pointing arm is most definitely NOT a request). Matthew is a touch slow, so Jesus skewers him with a spear of divine light, Matthew finally raises his head (“Wha . . what’s going on?”) and like all humans in the presence of the divine he only manages a dumbfounded “Who, me?” Some will see the light and some won’t.
You head back out onto the busy streets of Rome, happy to have been called in to see it once more.
– Contributed by GB (see bio), Editor, Italian Notebook.
GB,
Another great piece! I love your “storytelling” style of writing. Thank you for sharing your talent with us, who only wish could write as well as you do.
Margie
I agree Margie! GB, you always wow us. This is no exception! Grazie.
This is so funny! I love it!!! Auguri! Troppo bello!
I visit St. Luigi & St. Matthew every time I’m in Rome. As many times as I have stood at that “altar”, I always discover something new and, depending upon my mood or what’s going on in my life, the powerful work of Caravaggio affects me in much the same way the pointing finger of Jesus did the startled Matthew.
To my mind, one of the Rome essentials. I’m bringing a group to Rome in April and will drag all of them into if this church – if that’s what it takes.
I visit this painting every time I visit Rome as well – and drag friends, students, and anyone I encounter to see it with me. Carol, I believe that Caravaggio wanted to affect us in much the same way he depicts Matthew’s summoning by Christ. As we look at the painting, and the way it is placed on the wall in relation to the viewer, we can imagine the pointing hand of Christ (notice that it is the same as the hand of Adam on the Sistine Ceiling) and the beam of light extend out of the picture plane into our space. Symbolically, we are also being ‘called’. This reaching out to the viewer is a characteristic of much of Baroque art.
Marvelous! Love your writing and storytelling. If only I could write as I felt. You are wonderful. Thank you for all your sharing.
You’re the best, GB.
Love all the tidbits. Your postings are a refreshing part of my day. Mille Grazie…
Bravo, GB!
I so enjoy your posts. Keep them coming!
I always stop to see this wonderful painting and its companion when I am walking from the Piazza Navonna on my way to the Pantheon. Caravaggio’s use of the natural light portal in the center adds to the real life tableau in this chapel. Bravissimo!
GB, you are brilliant.
…the divine light always searched the ‘anima’ of man, Matteo must of been of honest heart with his counting…
Giancarlos .. Wonderful recollection of leaving the Piazza Navona and walking 100 meters to se that incredible painting. Thanks for kindling the memories. 19″ of snow here in Chicago and Oak Park today.
Suzanne and Ron
When I visited Rome in 2006, I took a Context Rome “Caravaggio Seminar” and trully loved that walk around Roma from Villa Borghese to Palazzo Barbarini (sp), San Luigi, San Agostino, Santa Maria del Popolo – WOW. I’m lucky to be returning to Rome in April in time to see the exhibit at Palazzo Venezia. Can’t wait!
Thanks GB.